ISTANBUL - THE CITY IN TWO CONTINENTS
The exhilarating F1 experience in Istanbul
In 2006, Turkish Airlines or Turk Hava Yollari had started their flights directly from Mumbai to Istanbul and that was great news for the Indian travellers who could now in mere 6 hrs 30 minutes reach directly from Mumbai into Istanbul and into the country known as the Cradle of Civilization. We at Compact Travels were promoting the F1 Grand Prix in Istanbul and to get a first hand experience, I planned a visit to Istanbul to see the second edition of Grand Prix being held in Istanbul . Along with me were a reporter and a photographer of a leading TV news agency who were hosted by Compact Travels to see the F1 and experience first hand the only city in the world which lies in two continents.
Turkish Airlines flies out of Mumbai three times a week and we took the flight on Saturday, 26th August 2006 from Mumbai at 0455 hours arriving at Istanbul at 0845 hours. The advantage of the morning flight is that you can conveniently connect from Istanbul to other cities within Turkey as well as to various cities in Europe as well as to cities across the Atlantic in the North American Continent.
On arrival in Istanbul, we first had some fine Turkish breakfast at Tamara restaurant which was very close to the Bulvar Palas Hotel where we would be staying until Tuesday after which I would be heading to explore the other places in Turkey whereas my colleagues would head back to Mumbai. Istanbul is a city which lies in two continents - Asia and Europe although the city is comprising of three parts - the European side has the Historical Peninsula to the south of the Golden Horn and the Galata district to the north and then there is the New City on the Asian side. After breakfast and checking in at the hotel, we assembled once again at around 1.00 pm as all of us were eager to witness the qualifying session which was scheduled at around 1400 hours to decide on who would take the Pole Position on Race day. This was the 14th Grand Prix race of the year and though Alonso was leading and so was Renault for the Constructors' Table with both Schumacher and Ferrari in second place, it was indeed a crucial race for Ferrari as well as Schumacher to reduce the gap between Schumacher and Alonso and likewise for Ferrari to reduce the gap with Renault.
Istanbul is a fascinating city to hold such a prestigious event like Formula 1. With a population of over 12 million, the city has a growing history of motor sports after its inaugural event which was held in 2005. Not only for the locals, but visitors to Istanbul can combine the three days of F1 with an extension to see some other fascinating cities in Turkey. Istanbul is an excellent blend of the old and the new with its domes and minarets which dominates the old city and takes you back in time to the days of the Ottoman Empire and Constantinople. The modern city is bustling with activity and you find bars, clubs, shops, cafes and one of the areas which is there to explore wholenight is Taksim Square where you can enjoy fine cuisine and night life as well.
Coming back to the track at Istanbul, whether it's the organizers or the drivers or sponsors, they all agree that the Istanbul Park circuit is undoubtedly one of the best tracks in the world. The 5.378 kilometre track is only the third track after Imola in San Marino and Interlagos in Brazil which goes in the anti-clockwise direction which makes the Istanbul circuit all the more exciting. The circuit has a seating capacity of 130000 but on Race Day it appeared as if there were as many as 200000 people. You could just see a sea of people getting out of the Park and it was an experience that can be truly unmatched to what you see on television. So all you F1 fans, if ever you want to see one of the finest sporting events in spectacular environment, Istanbul is the place to be in.
The only flip side was the scorching heat and I remember on race day the temperature touched 40 degrees. However, there are several activities around the circuit which can help you keep your cool - you can gulp a couple of beers or soft drinks, take a picture in one of the finest cars on display wearing a helmet and posing like a F1 driver or carry home souvenirs of your favourite teams from one of the several merchandise shops. Why not try a Virtual Reality F1 experience or send a video to your families and friends from one of the swanky car stands as if you are reporting live from the F1 circuit. For kids too you can ride something similar to a quad bike or play a few games or enjoy the ambience of 22 cars racing on the circuit at 300 to 330 km/hr.
And to unwind after the race you can experience a Turkish night and see a cultural show or fine belly dancing or even be surprised at some of the talented Turkish singers who sing a few songs in Hindi besides more than 8 to 10 other languages to make you feel at home. Combine it with some fine Turkish cuisine and gulp down a couple of rake which you have to be a little careful and take in a few sips at a time. It may also be a good idea to experience Hamam or the Turkish Bath which is a rejuvenating experience especially at the end of a very hot summer day.
Coming back to the race itself, it was Day 2 and we had missed the practice sessions on Day 1 and we took a longer rest at the Hotel before heading to the Istanbul Park which lies on the south which is on the Asian side of the Bosphorus. We did not expect such heavy traffic heading south and it appeared as if the entire city or probably most of Turkey was heading to the Istanbul Park and we just about reached in time to see the last segment of the Qualifying Session. We were sitting in Tribune 8 Silver which is a good stand as it gives you a very good view of the last curve as well as the start and end of the race. We could also see the Paddock from a distance and whilst entering the Istanbul Park area itself we could hear the roaring of the engines from quite a distance. The arrangements were exceptional - whether it was the security or the shuttle service to take you to the different parts of the Park. The grandstand seats are plentiful and seats are divided as per pricing into the bronze, silver and gold price brackets.
The Pole positions 1 and 2 were taken by Ferrari with Felipe Massa in 1 and Michael Schumacher at No 2 followed by Fernando Alonso and Giancarlo Fisichella of Renault in 3 and 4 respectively. So it was all set for the Race Day on Sunday for the top two teams and top 2 players of each team to compete and we all were eagerly looking forward to see the outcome on the following day of the eventual winner of the Turkish Grand Prix at the end of the 58 laps of the race. After having seen the GP2 which comprised of 34 laps we headed back to the hotel and I decided to get hold of a pair of ear plugs on the following day when the engines would roar louder being the Race Day.
Whilst sharing information with those present at the circuit, we got to know that we missed out on history being made on Day 1 when Sebastian Vettel of BMW became the youngest ever driver to compete in an official Formula 1 session at the age of 19 years when he participated in the First Practice Session. And during the Second Practice Session Vettel recorded the best time which augurs well for him in future Formula 1 events especially when a champion like Michael Schumacher retired at the end of 2006 season. For BMW it was Nick Heidfeld of Germany and Robert Kubica of Poland who eventually took Pole Positions at No 5 and No 8 respectively.
That evening, although we were exhausted after an early morning flight and then a long drive to Istanbul Park especially with the traffic we wanted to experience some night life and we headed to Taksim area which is the place to be especially to try out some Turkish cuisine. We were recommended to visit Hala which is located in the Taksim area on Istiklal Caddesi in the Beyoglu area of Taksim. Beyoglu is the district on the north bank of the Golden Horn and Istiklal Caddesi which means Independence Avenue is in the heart of Beyoglu and is a very modern district where you will find many people even in the wee hours of the night strolling, shopping and snacking in this region. This area is exclusively reserved for pedestrians and comprises of boutiques, restaurants, cafes and galleries and the higher level of the buildings have residential flats. This avenue begins at the Taksim Square which is the main hub of modern Istanbul and on visiting this area especially late in the evening you wouldn't be surprised why Istanbul or rather Constantinople was called the Paris of the East by the 19th Century travellers.
The Taksim Square is one of the busiest areas of Istanbul and on walking this street a couple of hours can just fly by as if you have been here for a few minutes. Hala is one of the many restaurants in this area and on one side of the restaurant you will find a man calling out in Turkish to come and try the hand made Turkish Ice cream whereas on the other side you have a native woman in front of the window rolling out thin dough, something similar to our open tandoor restaurants that you find here in Mumbai. You can try out manti which is the Turkish ravioli served with a local yogurt sauce or even some of the kebabs that they serve and you would not miss your Indian food. The food served here is so good and the quantity is enormous as well and more importantly it offers great value for money. We liked the food so much that the following evening we were once again at Hala trying out some of the dishes that we missed out during the previous night and each one of us relished the Turkish food served to us and I would highly recommend Hala for anyone wanting to experience good Turkish cuisine.
After a long and exhausting day we returned back to the hotel although we would have loved to spend some more time at Taksim Square. It was Sunday, day 2 for us at the Istanbul Park and Race Day and unlike the previous day we did not want to be stuck in traffic and we left immediately after breakfast. To our pleasant surprise we reached in less than an hour and we spend some time in the morning to visit a few merchandise stalls. It was a complete festive environment with a band singing away, some of the finest sports cars on display and there were lot of picture and souvenir collection opportunities. There were several events lined up before the big race which was scheduled to start at 1500 hours. There was the VW Polo Ladies of 8 laps, followed by the GP2 race of 23 laps which is an ideal platform for some of the drivers to showcase their talent to move up to the F1 circuit.
Later, there was the Driver's Track Parade at around 1330 hours and all the 22 participants who would later be competing with one another for the F1 Grand Prix went around the circuit waving at their fans who greeted them with thundering applause and finally the F1 Race was flagged off at 1500 hours to cover 58 laps of the circuit. Felipe Massa who had taken Pole Position came out a winner followed by Fernando Alonso at 2nd and not too far behind in third position was Michael Schumacher. Even though the fastest lap was recorded by Michael Schumacher, it was after the pit stop that Schumacher took that Alonso got the opportunity to take the lead and pipped Schumacher at the post for the no 2 spot. Coincidentally, the results for the F1 at Interlagos in Brazil for the No 1 and 2 positions were similar to the one at Istanbul with Felipe Massa of Ferrari winning and Alonso in 2nd position and Schumacher losing the third position at Interlagos to Jenson Button of Honda by about 5 seconds. Last year's winner Kimi Räikkõnen of Finland racing for McLaren Mercedes had to retire in the first lap itself due to an accident. Eventually it was in Japan that Fernando Alonso took the winning lead for the Driver's Championship in 2006 as well as ensuring that Renault won the Constructor's Championship in 2006 and the Brazilian Grand Prix was a mere formality especially as Alonso finished at the No 2 position ahead of Schumacher.
It was my first F1 experience and I must say that seeing the F1 live is truly a must and there is no better place to experience the F1 than Istanbul especially for Indian fans as it is in close proximity to India and the closest anti-clockwise circuit. Importantly, it gives also gives you the opportunity to explore a wonderful city like Istanbul - the only city in two continents as well as the country which is surrounded by the Black Sea, the Aegean Sea and the Mediterranean Sea.
Napoleon once said, if there is one state in the world, Istanbul would be the capital of it and truly so due to its strategic location and being a city extremely rich in history and civilization. Firstly, it was ruled by the Greek Byzas who discovered the place known as Byzantium in 667 BC, thereafter it became part of the Roman Empire in 64 BC and later the name was changed to Constaninople when Constantine became Emperor in 324 AD. Later it was conquered in 1453 by Sultan Mehmet II and was then called Istanbul. Over the years, the Christians, Muslims and Jews have lived in harmony and created a city rich in culture and architecture - one that is marvelled and remains one of the wonders of the world.
Amongst the greatest sights in Istanbul include the Haghia Sophia Museum, one of the world's greatest building; the Blue Mosque which is believed to have been built by the same stonemasons who helped build the Taj Mahal in Agra; the Topkapi Palace which was the official residence of the Sultans for over 400 years and contains several precious objects in its treasure room and a trip to Istanbul would be incomplete without taking a cruise along the Bosphorus and moving from Asia into Europe and vice versa. There is also the Sülemaniye Mosque and the Dolmabahçe Palace which are also worth visiting. It would be ideal to spend atleast a week in Istanbul as you can also see the Galata Tower, visit the Grand Bazaar as well as Spice Bazaar and experience the interesting sights and sounds of this beautiful city. The advantage of flying Turkish Airlines is that if you are flying onward to Europe or North America, it would be a great idea to take a 3 to 4 days stopover in Istanbul whilst flying west or even a stopover on your way back to India.
So whether it is London, Paris, Berlin, Prague or Athens, you can conveniently combine any one or more cities along with Istanbul and Compact Travels offers unique “twin city” packages with convenient flight connections on Turkish Airlines. And to get the true cultural experience of Turkey you must enjoy fine Turkish cuisine with a cultural show including belly dancing which brings in the true flavour of this wonderful country. The show which comprises of over 90 minutes displays some of the fine forklore dances as well as belly dancing and to keep you involved you are invited on stage to dance with the performers and carry home pleasant memories. You also have a good blend of cross cultures especially if the group that you travel comprise of several nationalities and we had one of the greatest experiences.
During my visit, not only did I witness the F1 but also the Superleague match between home favourities Galatasaray playing with Gaziantepspor at the Ali Sami Yen Stadium in Istanbul. Founded in 1905, Galatasaray is the oldest and most successful club in Turkey and seeing the home support that Galatasaray got, it was a mind boggling experience to be in the midst of over 25000 spectators and a packed stadium to witness one of the exciting games of the Super league encounter which ended eventually in 2-2. If you are in Istanbul and a football fan, I strongly recommend you to find out during your visit whether Galatasaray is playing in Istanbul and you will have one of the most memorable experiences witnessing one of the most popular teams of football in Turkey. Football is huge in Turkey and Turkey is one of the better teams of this high paced sport. We at Compact Travels, besides offering F1 also organized packages to see the UEFA Champions League match in December between Galatasaray and Liverpool and I am sure whether it would have been the Liverpool fans who are no less vocal in their support or the Galatasaray fans it would have been one of the finest spectator events to witness at the Ataturk Olympic Stadium in Istanbul which is the largest stadium on the outskirts of Istanbul with a seating capacity of 75000 spectators.
Istanbul has so much to offer that you need to visit this city time and again. Also worth experiencing would be the Sufi Music Concert and Whirling Dervishes Ceremony also known as the Sema Ceremony which is proclaimed as an intangible World Heritage by UNESCO. The Whirling Dervishes trace their origin to the 13th century Ottoman Empire. The Dervishes, also known as the Mevlevi Order, are Sufis, a spiritual offshoot of Islam. In 1972, Jelaluddin Loras, Sheikh of the Mevlevi Order of America, brought the religion from Turkey to the United States. On December 17, Whirling Dervishes across the world celebrate the birth of Jelaluddin Mevlana Rumi, a mystic poet, who founded the Mevlevi Order. In fact UNESCO will be celebrating the 800th birth anniversary of Rumi this year i.e. 2007.
One of this Turkish Mystic Music and Dance performance can be witnessed at the Sirkeci Train Station near the Seraglio Point beneath the walls of the Topkapi Palace. This train station is also the destination of the famous rail experience known as the Orient Express
The Palace is surrounded with walls around 5 kilometres and the total area is supposed to be twice the size of Vatican.. The Palace which was protected by 28 towers, comprises of 4 enormous courtyards- a magnificent wooden garden fills the outer or first courtyard; the second courtyard had the palace kitchens which now serves as galleries exhibiting imperial collections of crystal, silver and Chinese porcelain. To the left of the second courtyard, there used to be the Harem- the secluded quarters of the wives. The third court yard used to have the Hall of Audience, the Library of Ahmet III and here you can find the exhibition of imperial costumes worn by the sultans and their families, the famous jewels of the treasury and a priceless collection of miniatures from medieval manuscripts. This is the most popular area for the tourists as the collection on display is simply awesome. In the centre of this innermost sanctuary, the Pavilion of the Holy Mantle enshrines the relics of the Prophet Mohammed which was brought to Istanbul by the Ottomans. The most sacred treasure is the mantle once worn by Prophet Mohammed. You will also find the hairs from the beard of the Prophet as well as the letter written by him and an impression of his footprint behind a glass cabinet in the anteroom.
Thereafter we went to see Sultanahmet Imperial Mosque popularly known as the Blue Mosque because of its magnificent interior paneling of the blue and white Iznik Tiles. The Blue Mosque is undoubtedly one of the famous icons of Istanbul and Turkey along with the Hagia Sophia. Located on the west bank of the Golden Horn, the Blue Mosque is one of the most famous religious monuments in the world. It was built during the first quarter of the 17th Century by Mehmet Aga, the imperial architect and the mosque is unique as it comprises of six minarets and it was considered to be an attempt to rival the architecture of Mecca. On the other side of the Blue Mosque is the Haghia Sophia which is separated by the Sultanahmet Square , close to the Hippodrome. The ancient Hippodrome was once a gigantic stadium which now is an elongated public garden. The remains however is quite indicative of the scale of the Hippodrome which used to hold up to 100000 people. The road running around the square was used for chariot racing and today you find three ancient monuments which remain- the first one being the Egyptian Obelisk which used to be in Luxor and was brought here in Istanbul by Constantine and was supposed to have been built in 1500 BC, then you have the Serpentine Column which was brought here from Delphi and is believed to be dated from 479 BC and the last column known as the Column of Constantine, also known as the Brazen Column as it is thought to have been covered with sheets of bronze.
After a long walk, we realized it started to drizzle a bit and we went underground to see the Basilica Cistern. This vast underground water cistern is a very unusual tourist attraction and a fine piece of engineering. Located in the historical peninsula of Istanbul, it is one of the few existing architectural examples built during the 6th Century by Emperor Justinian. The Cistern is 143 metres in length and has a width of 65 metres and has 336 marble columns each being 9 metres high. The capitals of the columns are primarily Ionic and Corinthian styles and the cistern is surrounded by a firebrick wall with a thickness of 4 metres and coatedwith a special mortor for insulation against water. After restoration in 1985 , the cistern has been open to the public since 1987. The experience of walking underground amidst the sounds of dripping water was a total change from the fine architecture that we had seen earlier above ground.
The highlight of the Cistern were the Medusas which were located at the back of the Cistern. There was one upside down Medusa supporting one of the columns and it is believed that the head of the Medusa was placed upside down to ward off evil spirits. Interestingly, a few columns away, there was a second Medusa with the head sideways which was quite mysterious indeed. We were told that certain scenes of the James Bond movie From Russia with Love was shot at the Basilica Cistern also known as the Yerebatan Sarnici or the Underground Cistern. Thereafter we moved above ground to head towards the Grand Bazaar.
What is a Medusa?According to a narration, Medusa was one of the three Gorgons, the female dragons of the underground in Greek Mythology. Of those three sisters only Medusa with snakes for the hair was positive and had the power to turn those that looked at her into stone. Therefore, it is thought that in that period Gorgon-heads, figures and statues were put with an aim to protecting great buildings and special places and Medusa was also placed to ward off evil.
Still, according to another narration, Medusa was a girl that boasted of her black eyes, long hair and graceful figure, who had long been in love with Perseus, the son of Zeus, a Greek idol. In the meantime, Athene, a female idol, was also in love with Perseus and therefore envied Medusa. For that reason, Athene changed Medusa’s hair into horrible snakes. From then on, whomsoever Medusa looked at, he used to be petrified. Later, seeing her in that form Perseus thought in astonishment that Medusa had been bewitched and then he beheaded her. Thereafter, he took her head in his hand and exposed it to his enemies and petrified them and thus won a lot of wars. It is thus rumored that after that event Medusa’s head was engraved –either upside down or in an oblique position - in the handles of swords and on the pedestals of columns in ancient Byzantium.
Here I must add that besides the Blue Mosque, you also have the Sülemaniye Mosque built by the arhictect Sinan above the Golden Horn in the grounds of the old palace as a fitting memory to its founder Süleyman the Magnificent. Built during the 16th Century, Sinan wanted to surpass the magnificence of Hagia Sophia and this is conspicuous from its great size emphasized by the four minarets rising from each of the four corners of the courtyard.
A visit to Istanbul is not complete until you visit the Grand Bazaar and the Spice Bazaar. For us the Spice Bazaar visit was to be done along with the Bosphorus on Tuesday and we therefore went to see the Grand Bazaar which comprises of a labyrinth of streets and passages with more than 4000 shops comprising of goldsmiths, carpet sellers, Turkish Arts and Crafts including hand painted ceramics, copperware, brassware, onyx ware as well as the meerschaum pipes. It is easy to get lost in the bazaar and therefore you need to keep tab of where exactly you entered for in order to find your way out from the correct route especially if you are travelling with a group. The Grand Bazaar offers you a wonderful opportunity to exercise your bargaining skills and at times you can strike good deals if you bargain aggressively.
After a long day we once again moved to Taksim to enjoy some Turkish cuisine. Istanbul as a city has a great choice of international cuisine and you will find a couple of Indian restaurants as well. However it is worth trying the kebab houses and the fish restaurants especially on the shores of the Bosphorus. There are several kinds of kebabs you could try out including the doner kebab which is the roast sliced meat, adana which is the minced meat on a skewer, sis which is cubes of meat and Bursa which is the doner meat with tomato sauce and yoghurt on bread. For vegetarians you can find stuffed vegetables cooked too. Turkish tea, especially the apple flavoured tea is a great delight too and if you want to be extra adventurous you can try Turkey’s national drink – raki which tastes like anise and is transparent and on adding water turns cloudy. The best way to enjoy raki ( also known as "Lion's Milk"), is with thin, cylindrical glasses and cold (about 8 to 10 degrees Celsius). One can drink it straight or with water, soda, or mineral water. Although raki, which is a distilled alcoholic beverage strongly aromatized with anise-seed, can be consumed as a cocktail, more commonly it is preferred with "meze" (Turkish hors d'oeuvres and appetizers) such as Russian salad, garlic sauce, sliced tomatoes and cucumbers, cold-cuts, fried vegetables and pastries or even shrimps. These are usually followed by entrées such as shish kebab, mixed grilled meats, steak, fish (pan-fried, grilled, or oven-baked) and, finally, fruits and desserts. The overwhelming favourite among the Turks, to accompany raki, is the combination of melon and feta-cheese.
The local beer Efes is very popular indeed and probably derives its name from Ephesus- the most famous Roman site in Turkey and you can also try out a Turkish Coffee especially if you know how to drink this very strong beverage. Turkish coffee is drunk slowly and is usually served with a glass of cold water (to freshen the mouth to better taste the coffee before sipping), though sometimes, especially after dinner, with a small glass of mint or liqueur. The thick layer of sludgy grounds at the bottom of the cup is left behind. Turkish coffee grounds are sometimes flavoured with cardamom thus eliminating the need to have the spice added during preparation.
For breakfast the Turkish love to have feta-like cheese, olives, tomatoes, honey, bread and tea. At times they have watermelon and eggs too. One of the finest restaurants to try excellent Turkish cuisine is located in the Spice Bazaar called Pandeli. So you could combine a visit to Spice Bazaar along with lunch at Pandeli although the food is quite pricey.. Pandeli also has one of its branches in Athens, Greece. The following day started with a visit to the Spice Bazaar and the Haghia Sophia Museum and later we were to do the historic Bosphorus cruise before I would take the 1940 hours flight from Istanbul to Kayseri to explore the region of Central Anatolia and specifically Cappadocia.
I was looking forward to visiting the museum of Haghia Sophia. Haghia Sophia which stands for Church of Holy Wisdom was built in 537 AD and is one of the world’s greatest archictectural achievements. It was built by Constantine the Great and later reconstructed by Emperor Justinian. After 916 years as a church, Haghia Sophia was converted into a mosque in 1453, shortly after the conquest by the Ottomans. Apart from whitewashing the paintings and mosaics and removing the Christian icons and statues, the Turks left Haghia Sophia untouched. They committed no acts of destruction as the eighth and ninth century Christian iconoclasts had done. In 1935 the church was transformed into a museum. There are five doors which lead into the Outer Narthex which is the largest in the centre reserved for the Emperor and members of his family. At the entrance of the Narthex is a mosaic which depicts Constantine and Justinian presenting the walled city of Constantinople and Haghia Sophia to the Virgin Mary. There are several other mosaics which ornate the museum. In the upper galleries known as the gynaceum, there are several mosaic panels representing several royalties including Emperor Alexander, the Empress Zoe and her third husband Constantine IX.
Another indication of reverence in which the Turks held Haghia Sophia is the collection of royal tombs in the precinct. The tombs of Mustafa I, Sultan Ibrahim, Selim II, Murat III and Mehmet III are all worth visiting. After a brief halt at the Hagia Sophia, our next stop was at the Spice Bazaar. Also known as the Egyptian Bazaar, it is the second largest covered shopping complex in Istanbul after the Grand Bazaar. The Spice Bazaar or Market was built in 1660 as part of the New Mosque Complex and has been associated with the sale of spices although you may find many souvenir items including the famous “Evil Eye” or the Nazar Boncuk(pronunced as “bon-dschuk”). This little magic stone is one of the most popular souvenirs that you may want to pick up for friends and families as it is said to ward off evil. Besides the Evil Eye, you find a wide range of selection of dry fruits which Turkey is famous for as well as Turkish deserts including the world famous Baklava. In short the Spice Bazaar is a must stop place for shopaholics as well as those who want to carry home memories of this wonderful country.
We quickly moved on thereafter to be part of the Bosphorus Cruise which takes you from one continent to another which makes the city of Istanbul unique. Bosphorus is the name of the strait which forms the boundary between the European part of Turkey to the Asian part also known as Anatolia. The Bosphorus is the narrowest strait used for international navigation and connects the Black Sea to the Sea of Marmara. We took a 90 minute cruise which offered us excellent vantage points to view some of the cities finest landmarks including the Fortress of Europe which was built by Mehmet II in 1452, the 19th Century Baroque style Dolmabahçe Palace and many other palaces as well as houses of some of the rich and famous across the shore of the Bosphorus Strait. We got an excellent view of the Bosphorus bridge which connects the two continents and runs across the strait. The Bosphorus bridge, built in 1973, is world’s ninth longest suspension bridge extending 1074 metres or 3524 feet and is one of the most photographed places when on the Bosphorus cruise. There is a second bridge which is north of the first bridge which runs across the Bosphorus and was built in 1988. It is known as the Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge.
After a relaxing cruise, I was on my way to the airport to take the flight to Kayseri and head to ther landlocked region of Cappadocia and Central Anatolia where I reached late in the evening.
After having experienced the beautiful sights and sounds of Istanbul, I took the Onur Air flight at 1940 hours from Istanbul to Kayseri to head to the region of Central Anatolia and Cappadocia which was included as part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985. I arrived at the Kayseri Airport at around 2100 hours and from there it took around 60 minutes to reach Ürgüp where I was to stay at Dinler Hotel. Dinler is a four star property which overlooks Ürgüp, the centre of Cappadocia and is 80 kilometers fromr Kayseri Airport. Later, I walked into the centre of the town which was just 10 minutes away from the hotel to try some traditional Turkish cuisine.
Cappadocia is a land locked region and comprises of several provinces in a relatively small area of around 300 sq kilometers. The most popular areas are Nevshir, Ürgüp, Avanos and Göreme-the open air museum. The other provinces are Aksaray, Nigde, Kayseri and Kirsehir. The moon-like landscapes of Cappadocia are in fact the result of the erosion of the different layers of the lava spat in the distant past by the Erciyes, Hasandag and Gulludag, the three active volcanoes of the region. The erosion by wind and rain still continues today and makes some parts collapse and others stand out. Small rivers meander in surprisingly beautiful wild canyons lined by the so-called ‘fairy chimneys’. You will be overwhelmed by the astoundingly beautiful array of colours which continuously change according to the time of the day and changing light.
The ancient town of Ürgüp is built at the slope of a rocky hill and you have several cave hotels where you can live in. The hill is made of volcanic tuff and most of the houses were carved out of this soft rock formation. Ürgüp is a fine tourist resort with the town having a beige earth colour which blends well with the rest of the carved rock houses in the region. The entire area is covered with unique land formations and the sudden slopes of colourful gorges, the fairy chimney formations along with natural and man-made human made caves gives the place a unique character.
The fairy-chimneys are in fact tall pinnacles made of tuff with a large rock sitting on the top. They were established through the geological movements and the erosion due to the atmospheric conditions. There are a number of early Christian churches, monasteries and chapels carved out of this volcanic tuff material in the surroundings. The town is known to be the residence to the bishops, during the Middle Ages. It is believed that the amazing landscape of Cappadoccia was created around 25 million years ago with the eruption of volcanoes in this region and the ash remains created the eroded material called tuff which formed distinct formations including the capped-cone ’fairy chimneys ’near Ürgüp. The best way to see the various formations is to start your tour at the Imagination Valley where you see some amazing animal shaped rocks including the mighty King Kong, the head of a dinosaur as well as the camel with its hood which is one of the most photographed sights of the valley.
Around end-August it was extremely warm during the day with the temperature reaching around 400 C. However, the walk around the Imagination Valley was worth the visit inspite of the blistering heat. For a tourist, I would strongly recommend to spend at least 2 nights in Cappadocia so that you can experience exploring the region by Hot Air Balloon and a stay at a cave hotel is highly recommended. One of the best properties to stay is the Elkep Evi Hotel right on top of the hill at Ürgüp near the area of Esbelli which gives you a spectacular view of the region of Capaddocia. For honeymooners, this is the most romantic place to be in and in the morning you can take a Hot Air Balloon and glide through love valley.
In winters, this region is covered by snow and becomes a popular skiing area and one of the exciting ways to explore the region is on horse back as Capadoccia in Persian means the “land of the beautiful horses”. You can also experience the Hamam-Turkish bath at the end of the day to rejuvenate yourself. So, there’s lots to do in Cappadocia.
The volcanic eruptions millions of years ago has made this a rich fertile areas for agriculture and you find grapes, apricots, cherries as well as chick peas and sugar beets grown in this region. The region of Cappadocia is also famous for its wine and at Avanos which is 18 kilometers from Nevshir, there is a tradition of pottery-making which has been in existence for more than 8000 years.
The following morning we did a day long tour starting with the Imagination Valley after which we visited the region of Pasabag which has some of the most amazing forms of chimney in volcanic rock which is synonymous to the region of Cappadocia. Some of these chimneys have twin as well as a triple rock caps and the sight is simply amazing. The other name of this valley is Monks Valley as it is believed that in the 8th century there were many saints who lived here and we visited the house of one such saint - St. Simon.
The house which is in the form of a cave is one of the popular sites to visit in this region as St. Simon was an important Saint during the period of Christianity. Avanos is a lively town with a shopping centre on one side and a beautiful maze of old stone houses on the other, some restored and some simply abandoned by fate. The Kizilirmak or the Red River separates Avanos from the rest of Cappadocia and is supposedly the longest river in Turkey. It is from this river that you find the red pottery clay in the region. In some of the houses at Avanos you can also find the murals and motifs of the Ottoman era.
Pottery has been produced in the Avanos area for several centuries and some of the techniques still used date back to Hittite times. Avanos is a mass of family run potteries, most of which are only too pleased to let visitors have a go on the potters wheel and give them a full history of the many and various pottery goods on offer. Avanos pots make wonderful souvenirs and are available at a wide range of prices, from simple ashtrays and mugs to ornate plates and chess sets. It is quite common to find these souvenirs and also a few handicraft shops in this region.
We visited the workshop of Chez Galip which is one of the most popular pottery workshops of the region making pottery for over six generations. Known as Çeç Pottery, it has the most amazing collection of pottery that you will find in this region. Not only they demonstrate how pottery is made but also you can try your hand at this wonderful art of pottery making which on the face of it looks very simple but requires a lot of finesse and artistry to go along with your creativity. After admiring some fine ceramic work, our next halt was at Göreme-an open air museum and one of the most important centres of Christianity. Göreme is 15 km east of Nevsehir and 5 km west of Ürgüp. In Göreme, you will find over 600 churches which are carved by rock formations. It is difficult to say when the Christians came here, but it is believed that it was after St. Paul which was around 2nd century. After that period, the Christian population in this region increased and continued to do so during the 3rd and 4th Century. In the 4th Century, there were three saints from Anatolia who came here to set up the principles of Christianity.
Göreme has a friendly and relaxed atmosphere but there is café society and nightlife in the centre of the village for those who fancy something more lively. There is plenty to see in Göreme itself and is a useful base to explore the region of Cappadocia.
However, the main attraction of the region is the great concentration of rock-cut chapels and monastries. Many of the churches here feature Byzantine frescoes which depicts various scenes from the life of Christ. Several caves have been restored in this area and some of churches amongst many are the Barbara Church, the Tokali Church and the Yilanli Church. You can also do a camel ride around the region and also climb up to the Kizlar Monastery.
Most of the frescoes in the churches have been damaged over the years but the beauty of the churches and their decoration is still apparent on visiting Göreme. The best preserved frescoes are in the Dark Church or Kranlik Kilise and there is an add-on fee to visit these paintings which have been restored. A visit is highly recommended for those who appreciate fine fresco paintings. We also visited the Apple Church and the Snake Church.
The Apple Church is one of the smaller churches in the area, carved in the sign of a Greek cross with four irregular pillars supporting a central dome. The church was restored in the early 1990s, but the frescoes continue to chip off, revealing a layer of earlier paintings underneath. Paintings depict scenes of the saints, bishops, and martyrs, and to the right of the altar, a Last Supper with the symbolic fish (the letters of the word fish in Greek stand for "Jesus Christ, Son of God, the Saviour"). The name of the church is believed to refer to a reddish orb in the left hand of the Archangel Michael in the dome of the main apse, although there's also speculation that there used to be an apple tree at the entrance to the church and hence it got the name of the Apple Church
The Snake Church is a simple barrel-vaulted church with a low ceiling and long nave. One fresco represents Saints Theodore and George slaying the dragon (looking suspiciously like a snake), with Emperor Constantine the Great and his mother Helena depicted holding the "True Cross." Legend has it that she discovered the cross upon which Jesus was crucified after seeing it in a dream, and that a piece of the cross is still buried in the foundations of the Ayasofya in Istanbul.
After having spent a couple of hours at Göreme, it was time to head back to Ürgüp The following day I took the flight from Kayseri to Izmir for the last leg of my journey to Turkey where I would be visiting the exciting region of the Aegean Sea starting with Kusadasi and then moving on to Ephesus and also to Hierapolis and Pammukale which also is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site.
KUSADASI & THE AEGEAN EXPERIENCE
The Aegean shores undoubtedly boasts of the loveliest landscapes in the country - from coastlines with crystal clear water to pristine beaches and some amazing historic sites. I was looking forward to the last leg of my trip to Turkey. On arrival at Izmir airport, I was quite excited to head to Kusadasi which is a famous port of call for luxury cruise liners, besides well known for its beaches, restaurants and night life as well. Kusadasi which means "Bird Island" derives it name from an islet known as Pigeon Island. Located around 90 minutes on the south of Izmir, you can also visit Greece as the island of Samos which is just 30 minutes by boat from Kusadasi.
There are several day trips which are organized from Kusadasi into Greece and it is important that you have a visa for Greece as well as a multiple entry visa for Turkey in case you plan taking the day cruise to Samos Island. Kusadasi has grown to be a popular tourist destination as it is close to many important sites across the Aegean region such as Pammukale which is 3 hours away, Bodrum - the party capital of Turkey which is 2 hours from Kusadasi and Ephesus or Efes which is one of the most popular sites and well known for the best preserved ancient ruins in the world. Ephesus is near Selçuk which is a mere 30 minutes away from Kusadasi.
En route from Izmir to Kusadasi you will also find two Aqua Parks - Aqua Fantasy and Adaland. On the coach I had a couple - the man was from Scotland and the lady from New Zealand and the lady was making her 18th trip to Turkey as she has been visiting Turkey almost every year when she set her foot first on this country nearly 20 years ago and they were to spend a week chilling out at Aqua Fantasy which is one of the biggest water parks in the world. I could gauge the size of the park as you could see some of the gigantic water slides as the coach halted at the park for the passengers to alight at Aqua Fantasy. One can stay at the Aqua Fantasy Club Hotel, a four star resort property which has its own private beach and is just 4 kilometres from Kusadasi.
Alternatively you can stay in Kusadasi and make a day trip to any of the waterparks. The other water park en route is Adaland which is the biggest Aquapark in Europe and comprises of a wide range of activities with over 20 fantastic rides spread around 67 acres.
After having crossed the Aqua parks we were approaching the scenic town of Kusadasi with it crystal clear waters. I checked in at the Kayhanbey Hotel, a four star property which is located along the harbour and I could see one of the cruise liners which was docked from the balcony of my hotel room. The hotel comprises of 72 rooms and is in the heart of the city centre and an ideal place to stay. You have quite a few restaurants in the vicinity and as it was nearing lunch time, I stopped for lunch at King's Palace which is a café restaurant and serves a wide variety of cuisine ranging from Turkish, Italian, Indian and Mexican. So for the Indian travellers who are particular either for vegetarian or Indian meals you would love Kusadasi as it offers lots of options as far as cuisine is concerned.
Later that afternoon, I explored the city centre starting with the port area which has all the leading shopping brands at great value. The city of Kusadasi to a great extent reminded me of Phuket, Thailand as it is having not only beautiful beaches, but a town bustling with activity and is a delightful place to be in whether you are going on a honeymoon or a family holiday or even if you are a party animal. The town itself boasts of some lovely beaches and enjoys 300 days of sunshine a year - a typical Mediterranean climate with long summers and mild winters. One of the popular beach is known as the Ladies Beach or Kadinlar Denizi and is located around 5 kilometres from the city centre. No motor vehicle is allowed in the ladies beach area and there is a regular shuttle which runs from the town centre to the ladies beach. You can also experience various water sports activities here - whether it is windsurfing, water skiing, sailing or beach volleyball, Kusadasi is one of the popular destinations to relax by the beach side and at the same time visit some of the historic sites around the region. What better way to spend your evening after a day of activity than try out a Turkish Hamam or the famous Turkish Bath.
That evening, I went to Adasaray Hamami which is a few kilometers away from the town to try out the Turkish Bath as Kusadasi is one of the best places to try the traditional Turkish bath experience. The tradition of Turkish bath dates back to the time even before the Turks had reached Anatolia. When the Turks arrived in Anatolia, they brought with them a bathing tradition and were confronted with the bathing tradition of the Romans and Byzantines and soon the traditions of bathing merged and with the addition of the Moslem concern for cleanliness; there arose a new concept of bathing known as the Hamam or the Turkish bath. Soon the popularity of Hamam grew and besides become a place to cleanse the skin, it became a ritual for the locals to frequent the Hamam and today it has become one of the major attractions for those who visit Turkey. So what exactly is the Hamam experience - You first enter a chamber what is called a dream room to leave your clothes and wrap yourself with a towel and then you can go to the sauna room for 15 to 20 minutes. Thereafter, you go the the main bathing area where there is a centralized platform also known as the main parlour area.
The Turkish Bath or Gobek Tasi in Turkish which is translated as belly stone in English is where you lie down for about 10 to 15 minutes and a professional masseur will use loofas to cleanse your skin in order to open the pores of your skin along with foamy layers of soap. After that you have a choice of either taking a typical Turkish massage followed by shower or skip the massage and immediately after the bath leave the main room and go to the lounge area wrapped around in your bathing robe and enjoy a warm drink which is preferably the traditional Turkish tea. The entire experience is extremely rejuvenating and those who haven't tried a Turkish bath, I would strongly recommend them to do so when in Turkey and preferably in Kusadasi especially after having spent a long day at the beach side soaking in the sun and trying out some active water sports along the beach. There are separate bathing areas for men and women and the best way to know how you feel is to experience it.
Later that evening, I headed to the city centre where one finds shops open late in the evening and at times till the wee hours of the morning. It is in the evening that the city comes to life and the restaurants serve some of the local Aegean speciality including fresh seafood. You can then burn your calories dancing away at any of the bars or discotheques which are open till the early hours of dawn. The following morning, I joined the tour to Efes or Ephesus which is one of the best preserved ancient city on the Eastern side of the Mediterranean. The day long tour comprised of visiting the ruins as well as the House of Virgin Mary where it is believed that Virgin Mary spent her last few years here at the Bulbul Mountains, Selçuk which is a few kilometers away from Ephesus.
Ephesus was our first stop and here you find several acres of carefully excavated ruins which present an unparalleled recreation of ancient splendour. Ephesus once had over 250000 inhabitants and to appreciate the magnificent ruins you need one entire day. There are some fine sites which stand out in the city of Ephesus and this includes the Celsus Library and the Grand Roman amphitheatre where till date you have concerts being performed during the annual Efes festival. The city of Ephesus itself was founded around 3000 BC by the Amazons and it was around 1000 BC that it became a Greek Colony. The foundation of Ephesus was initiated by Androclos, son of Kodros (King of Athens). Androcolos and his companions established the new city and lived here for 44 years. The city became famous for its science, technology and wealth and its popularity spread in the surrounding area extending to the famous Temple of Artemis, one of the seven wonders of the ancient world.
Alexander the Great entered Ephesus in 334 BC and this period was known as the Golden Age of Ephesus. After Alexander's death, the city was ruled by one of his Generals and later in 130 BC, the city was annexed to the Roman Empire under the reign of Emperor Augustus and most of the remains seen today belong to the Roman Empire. Only 30% of the city has been excavated and as we were soaking in the history narrated to us by our guide, we could see some of the areas which were cordoned off as the excavation of the city continues to take place. The excavation of this city was started around 130 years ago.
Alexander the Great entered Ephesus in 334 BC and this period was known as the Golden Age of Ephesus. After Alexander's death, the city was ruled by one of his Generals and later in 130 BC, the city was annexed to the Roman Empire under the reign of Emperor Augustus and most of the remains seen today belong to the Roman Empire. Only 30% of the city has been excavated and as we were soaking in the history narrated to us by our guide, we could see some of the areas which were cordoned off as the excavation of the city continues to take place. The excavation of this city was started around 130 years ago.
As one enters the city of Ephesus, the first place we come across is the Agora or the Market place. Then there is the smaller amphitheatre known as Odeon which was used for concerts, later we moved on to the site of the Celsus Library which is one of the well preserved monuments of the city. The façade is two-storeyed and its interior consists of a single large hall. There are four pairs of columns and between them there are three entrance doors and between the doors there are four female statues which symbolizes virtue, knowledge, destiny and intelligence. The statues here in Ephesus are copies as the originals were taken to Austria. Across the library used to be a brothel of which there is very little remains today. Only two of the floors covering mosaics symbolizing the four seasons are in a well preserved condition. It was said that the people used to leave their homes with the excuse of going to the library and they would instead go across to the brothel.
Moving further down the Celsus Library there is a Triumphal Arch in Greek Roman Style which is the south east gate of the Commercial Agora or Market place and is supposed to have been built in the 4th or 3rd Century BC. To the north of the Agora is the Harbour Gate and the road alongside the Agora is known as the Marble Road as during the 5th Century it was believed to have been paved with white marble slabs and you find the remains of the road even today. The road leads to the Grand Theatre which is the most impressive structure of Ephesus and has a seating capacity of 24000 spectators. It was also the most important meeting place in the social and cultural life of the city. The original theatre was built during the Hellenistic age and was enlarged during 41-54 A.D. The theatre was used as a meeting place for ordinary citizens to discuss important matters involving the city. During the Roman Age, it also became a venue for gladiator fights involving wild animals. The renovated Grand Theatre of Ephesus is being used recently especially during the annual Efes Festival to stage various theatrical performances.
The other highlights of Ephesus include the Trajan Fountain, Memmius Monument, Hadrian Temple, Houses of the Slopes, Hercules Gate, Domitian Temple and the Pollio Fountain. After the city of Ephesus, we stopped next at the location of the Artemis Temple which was one of the wonders of the ancient world. The foundation stone of the temple was laid around 7th Century BC. It was built in honor of the Greek goddess of hunting, wild nature, and fertility and was in fact the most beautiful structure on earth and therefore included amongst the seven wonders of the ancient world. Referred to as the great marble temple, or temple D, it was sponsored by the Lydian king Croesus and was designed by the Greek architect Chersiphron. The temple served as both a marketplace and a religious institution. For years, the sanctuary was visited by merchants, tourists, artisans, and kings who paid homage to the goddess by sharing their profits with her. Recent archeological excavations at the site revealed gifts from pilgrims including statuettes of Artemis made of gold and ivory, ornaments comprising of earrings, bracelets, and necklaces as well as artifacts from Persia as well as India. On the night of 21 July 356 BC, a man named Herostratus burned the temple to ground in an attempt to immortalize his name.
The other highlights of Ephesus include the Trajan Fountain, Memmius Monument, Hadrian Temple, Houses of the Slopes, Hercules Gate, Domitian Temple and the Pollio Fountain. After the city of Ephesus, we stopped next at the location of the Artemis Temple which was one of the wonders of the ancient world. The foundation stone of the temple was laid around 7th Century BC. It was built in honor of the Greek goddess of hunting, wild nature, and fertility and was in fact the most beautiful structure on earth and therefore included amongst the seven wonders of the ancient world. Referred to as the great marble temple, or temple D, it was sponsored by the Lydian king Croesus and was designed by the Greek architect Chersiphron. The temple served as both a marketplace and a religious institution. For years, the sanctuary was visited by merchants, tourists, artisans, and kings who paid homage to the goddess by sharing their profits with her. Recent archeological excavations at the site revealed gifts from pilgrims including statuettes of Artemis made of gold and ivory, ornaments comprising of earrings, bracelets, and necklaces as well as artifacts from Persia as well as India. On the night of 21 July 356 BC, a man named Herostratus burned the temple to ground in an attempt to immortalize his name.
On the same night itself, Alexander the Great was born. Later, when Alexander the Great conquered Asia Minor, he offered to rebuild the destroyed temple, but the Temple was not restored until after his death in 323 BC. The temple was eventually restored and was labeled "Temple E" by archeologists. The temple was again destroyed by the Goths in AD 262. Although the Ephesians vowed to rebuild. by the fourth century AD, most Ephesians had converted to Christianity and the temple lost its religious glamour. The final chapter came when in AD 401 the Temple of Artemis was torn down by St John Chrysostom. Ephesus was later deserted, and only in the late nineteenth century has the site been excavated. The digging revealed the temple's foundation and the road to the now swampy site. Attempts were recently made to rebuilt the temple, but only a few columns have been re-erected.
Our next stop after the Artemis Temple was Meryama OR House of Virgin Mary where Virgin Mary had spent the last years of her life in the the Ephesus area. It is known that crucified Jesus has asked St John the Evangelist to look after his mother Mary and it was John who brought Mary to Ephesus around 37 AD where she spent the last few years of her life at the place known as Meryama which is 8 kilometres from Ephesus. The shrine is located at Mount Pion or Bulbul Mountain where it is believed that Mary lived until the age of 64 and died around 46 AD. This place was declared a place of pilgrimage around 1892 by the Archbishop of Izmir after the house was discovered in 1812 by a German nun - Sister Emmerich, who had never moved from her home as she was an invalid. However, one day she awoke in a trance and described Mary's house in detail which was recorded by a writer named Brentano, who was at her bedside. The German nun went on to say that the Virgin Mary died at the age of 64 and was buried in a cave near her house. When her coffin was opened soon after, however, the coffin and burial shroud were empty. The house was then turned into a chapel. Years after Emmerich's vision, a French clergyman read Brentano's account and later travelled to Ephesus to find the House of the Virgin where he found a house matching the nun's description and sent word to the bishops of Paris and Rome who did not respond to his observation.
Later in 1891, two Lazarist preists and two Catholic officials set out to Ephesus to see the house. They found a small chapel in ruins with a damaged statue of the Virgin. They returned to Izmir with their report, and more priests and specialists were sent out to the site. Since 1892 the House of the Virgin has been an official Catholic pilgrimage site. It was restored by 1897 and a shelter for visitors was set up. The Meryama was later visited by Popes Paul VI and John Paul II, who verified its authenticity. On August 15 (the Feast of the Assumption of Mary) each year, Orthodox and Muslim clergy conduct a service together at the shrine which is indeed rare in any part of the world. The House of the Virgin is a sacred site for both Christians and Muslims (Muslims also believe in the virgin birth and honour Mary as the mother of the Prophet Jesus). The spring that runs under the Virgin's House is believed to have healing properties, and many miracles have been reported. Inside the house are crutches and canes said to be left behind by those who were healed by the sacred spring.
The house itself is a one-domed building and at the entrance, there is a small front hall and at the back is an elongated chamber with an altar, which is a prayer room. This place of pilgrimage is visited by thousands of tourists each year and people believing in godly qualities of Virgin Mary come here and drink from the spring water believed to be sacred and make their wishes. Very recently in November 2006, Pope Benedict XVI celebrated a mass at the House of Virgin Mary and was the third Pope to visit this holy place of pilgrimage. Along the shrine there is a prayer wall where you have hundreds of pieces of cloth hanged up with wishes from pilgrims who frequent the place every year.
After spending some time at the holy place and experiencing the mystic beauty we headed back to Kusadasi. The next day was a day long tour to the region of Heirapolis and the cotton terraces of Pamukkale - one of the spectacular places worth visiting during your stay in Turkey. As you drive around the Aegean coast from Kusadasi, you turn inland towards Denizli to reach Pamukkale also know as the Cotton Castle. It takes about 3 hours from Kusadasi to reach the UNESCO town of Heirapolis-Pamukkale. Here, thermal spring waters laden with calcium run off the plateau's edge, creating a cascade of petrified basins - an extraordinary work of art created by nature. The ancient city of Heirapolis is located around 19 kilometres north of Denizli and is at an altitude of 100 metres above the Meander excavations. During the Hellenistic era, the thermal springs at Heirapolis made it a very popular spa and today the ruins of Heirapolis has many visitors not only for its history but also to swim in its mineral rich pools and see the terraces of Pamukkale.
The ancient city of Hierapolis itself was known as the Holy City in archeological literature because of the abundance of temples and various other religious structures in the area. The city was founded by Eumenes II, King of Pergamum and it was an importance centre during the Roman and Byzantine periods and a centre of Christianity since the 4th Century. It derives its name from Heira which means sacred city because of the religious events that took place here. There is a large cemetery area in this region and therefore it is also known as the Necropolis or the city of the dead. People used to come here to soothe their healings in the hot spa which were in existence here since 2nd Century BC and many of them retired and died here. The great baths were constructed with huge stone blocks without the use of plaster, and consisted of various closed or open sections linked together. There are deep niches in the inner section of the bath, library, gymnasium and other closed or open locations. The complex, constitutes a good example of vault-type architecture. The complex is now an Archaeological Museum.
The city of Heirapolis has statues and shops around, underneath which passed canals. The road had a base covered with stone blocks with two huge doors which were constructed at the end of the 1st Century and left outside the city walls. The Byzantine Gate was later constructed in the 6th Century. In the year 17 A.D. an earthquake destroyed the city, which was rebuilt. In the year 1534, another earthquake destroyed the remains of the ancient city. After the formation of the large white limestone, the hot springs became famous in the 20th century as the tourist attraction, known as Pamukkale. The city of Hierapolis along with Pamukkale was included in the UNESCO World Heritage Sites in 1988. The ancient city was rediscovered, but also partially destroyed by hotels that were built there. These buildings were removed again in recent years. The hot water pool of one hotel was retained, and, for a fee, it is possible to swim amongst ancient stone remains.
Pamukkale is one of Turkey's most popular and photographed sights and the terraces form when the water from the hot springs loses it carbon dioxide as it flows down the slopes which in turn leaves deposits of limestone, creating layers of white calcium carbonate formation. These formations are built up in steps on the plateau and that is probably how it has earned its name Pamukkale or cotton castle. The ancient city of Heirapolis was built on top of the white "castle" which is about 2700 meters long and 160m high. As you drive into the region, you can see the white terraces from a distance, as you drive uphill into Heirapolis. The region enjoys a temperate climate all year round.
The spring water which fill into these white terraces are at 350oC and forms an extraordinary phenomenon with their travertine deposits of calcium carbonate. The waters here are believed to have been used by Emperors who came here for various treatments such as cardiovascular disorders, blood pressure anamolies, skin eruptions as well as disorders of the digestive system. In fact the Turkish people call Pamukkale the 8th wonder of the world for its amazing beauty and fantastic formations of stalactities and basins. One of the popular stops is a swim at the Cleopatra Pool which is supposed to have strong healing powers as it is littered with fragments of marble columns which are associated with the Temple of Apollo. It costs about 10 Euros to bathe in the pool as this is the only place where bathing is allowed as it is forbidden to bathe in the cotton terraces.
However, at Pamukkale who find a lot of tourists coming in their swim suits to soak in the sun and dip their feet in the water of the white terraces, which has rich calcium deposits. Ideally, it is worth to stay one night in Pamukkale and Heirapolis to explore the region extensively. However, due to paucity of time, I had to head back to Kusadasi the same evening after completing the last leg of my tour to Turkey. The following day, I flew from Izmir into Istanbul and thereafter to take my connecting flight to Mumbai, after having visited one of the most fascinating countries, which has a unique influence of two continents - Asia and Europe. For those who are still planning a holiday this April or May, Turkey is a must visit destination, as you can stay at a cave hotel in Cappadocia, admire the natural beauty of the amazing cotton castle at Pamukkale or experience rich history and cruise along the Bosphorus in Istanbul, the only city in the world which is located in two continents and with direct flights from Mumbai to Istanbul, on Turkish Airlines, there is no reason why you should not be visiting this wonderful country. Compact Travels has some very unique itineraries to make your visit to Turkey one of your most memorable holiday experiences.
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