Friday, July 18, 2008

PULSATING POLAND- FROM WARSAW TO KRAKOW












































PULSATING POLAND by destination Poland specialist - Visit http://www.compacttravels.com/ for details


WARSAW & KAZIMIERZ DOLNY
It was in March 2006 when I got the first major exposure of Poland, that too in Czech Republic when I attended the ASTA IDE(International Destination Expo) which was organized in Prague and that gave me an opportunity to know about Poland whilst qualifying as a Poland Destination specialist after attending a workshop organized by Jan Rudomina, Director of National Polish Tourist Office, North America. I also happened to meet a few tour operators from Poland who mentioned to me about a Bollywood movie being shot in Poland. Later in the same year, Compact Travels was the first company in India to introduce a stand alone programme for Poland which included visits to the 3 capitals:- Warsaw- the present capital, Krakow- the former capital and the cultural capital, Zakopane- the winter capital.




It was in Zakopane that a part of the Bollywood movie Fanaa was shot. Although not many leisure travellers were going from India to Poland, we were successful in sending a few people and all of them came back with great experiences of the wonderful country and the hospitality extended to them by the Polish people during their visit.




In 2007, I was invited for a FAM tour in September and I was looking forward to visiting a country of great diversity. I booked my tickets on Austrian which has one of the best connections out of India to Warsaw and Krakow via Vienna. It was on a Sunday that I arrived at 0935 hours at Warsaw Okecie airport after taking the connecting flight from Vienna. On arrival in Warsaw,we checked in at the Sofitel Victoria, which incidentally was the first 5 star hotel built in this historic city which was destroyed during World War II. The hotel enjoys a perfect location with fabulous views of the Saxon Gardens and the National Opera and is a short walk from the Old Town which we would be visiting during the latter part of the day. After having some fine Polish cuisine at the Canaletto Restaurant at the hotel, we had our first halt at the Wilanow Palace and Park. The Wilanow Park and the facades of the Palace are located in the south of Warsaw. The Palace and Park has special significance as it was never destroyed during World War II and it is 350 years old. It is also the residence of King Jan III Sobieski of Poland who used to spend his summers at Wilanow Palace with his wife and 11 children. When the King died it was purchased by the aristocrats and the owners were forced by the Nazis to leave the Palace in 1944. When the communists arrived, they nationalized the residence and today it is one of the most famous museums in Warsaw . As we went about seeing the magnificent architecture and interiors of the Wilanow Palace our guide gave us a brief background as to how the city was destroyed during WWII, The Old Town and the Royal Castle were reconstructed and found their way on the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site.




The city of Warsaw is a thrilling and busy city with a hectic and vibrant life. Warsaw today is not only the centre of business and administration but also of science, culture and arts. Several students come to study in Warsaw as they have several private and public schools and you will find young people all around the city as the city is also well known for its Operas, theatres, cinemas, museums and art galleries. This bustling and cosmopolitan city is dynamic and as you move across the new city you see the imposing Palace of Culture and Science which is right in the centre of Warsaw from where you can get a great panoramic view of the city from the terrace of its 30th floor including a view of the Vistula river which cuts across the city. This imposing 234 metres building is a true example of architecture which you would find in the Soviet Union.




The Wilanow Castle itself is approximately 6 kilometres from the city centre and is also known as the Little Versailles as the wife of the King Jan III Sobieski who used to stay here during summers in the mid-17th century was from France. The lavish interiors with period furnitures, portraits and sculptures along with suits of armour are worth visiting. Interestingly, in the middle of the 16th Century the capital of Poland was the city of Krakow and the capital of Lithuania was the city of Vilnius, which continues to be the capital of Lithuania even today and they were united to form the the Polish Lithuanian commonwealth and the second largest state in Europe after Russia. In the middle of these two beautiful cities was the old provincial town called Warsaw which was appointed as the seat of the Parliament comprising of 170 deputies and 142 senators. The senators were nominated by the King for life and so they built palaces in Warsaw and today you will find some of these palaces along the King's Route and that's where we were heading next to see the residence of the Kings of Poland which was the Royal Castle in the Old Town. We started by visiting the area of the Royal Lazienki Park or the Royal Baths which comprises of 76 hectares or roughly 142 acres and is regarded as one of the most impressive garden complexes in Europe. Within the park is the stunningly beautiful Palace (Palac na Wuspie) which was commissioned by the last King of Poland- King Stanislaw August Poniatowski as his summer residence. Another highlight is the monument of Frederic Chopin. There are lots of beautiful places to visit within the park such as the restaurant, especially in the winter time as it is a green house. In fact the Lazienki Park is the largest park in Warsaw and links the Royal Castle on the Royal Route with Wilanow to the south. It took the name Lazienki which stand for Baths from a bathing pavilion that was located there. Stanislaw August's Palace on the lake is called a Palace on the Water and was established in the 17th Century.




Our next halt was at the Old Town . The Old Town is full of historic merchant houses, churches and the Barbican- a former entrance gate to the city. The Old Town centre comprises of the Old Town Market square with a statue of the city's symbol Syrenka, the Mermaid in its very heart. In fact, the Syrenka is part of the Coat of Arms of Warsaw which consists of the Mermaid in a red field. The Warsaw arms has been rendered as a mermaid with a sword and a shield in hand representing Melusina, the fresh water mermaid from the Vistula river. Within the Old Town, you can also see the house of Madam Curie, the famous physicist and chemist, a pioneer in the field of radioactivity, who was born in Warsaw. She was born in Warsaw in 1867 and later went to Paris to study Physics and Mathematics and later in life she won a Noble prize- the only one from Poland to in fact receive two Noble prizes and one of two Polish ladies to receive this honour.




As we walked along the Old Town we saw numerous art galleries and outdoor cafes with hoards of tourist even in September. We were told that the place gets busy as the sun sets and you also find several painters including portrait painters in the Old Town. A good way to visit the town is in a droshky which is a horse drawn carriage. Not too far away from the Square is the Royal Castle situated in the Castle Square and close by you can see the 22 meter column of King Zygmunt III Vaza who in the 16th Century moved the Capital of Poland from Krakow to Warsaw. One of the famous streets in the Old Town is Krakowskie Przedmiescie which means Krakow suburb and is one of the most prestigious and impressive street of Poland's capital. On this street you will find the Presidential Palace, Warsaw University as well as Polish Academy of Sciences which also has the statue of Nicolaus Copernicus in front of it. The immediate extension to this street is ulica Nowy Swiat, which denotes New World Street one of the busiest commercial streets in the city comprising of shops, galleries and cafes, dominated by 19th Century neo-classical residential houses.




Our tour came to an end and we headed to one of the many Indian restaurants that you can find in Warsaw, known as India Curry- which serves some fine Indian cuisine and is one of the popular restaurants even amongst the locals. We were told that besides serving some fine Indian cuisine, the restaurant also conducts cooking classes for those interested in learning about the spices that go into making Indian food.




The next day was a long day indeed, one of the longest of our tours as we were to head to Kazimierz Dolny and later to the Baranow Sandomierski Castle and finally to the spa town of Krynica Zdroj- one long day ahead for us. Like many cosmopolitan cities, Warsaw too has its problems of peak traffic and being a Monday morning we left a little beyond schedule in the direction of Kazimierz Dolny, a small town located in the Lublin province and on the East of Poland, located on the bank of the Vistula River- the main river of Poland. Although well known for its grain trade in the first part of the 17th Century, the town today still preserves its Renaissance influence and is a very popular holiday destination especially for artists due to its picturesque location and also a popular getaway especially during summer.




Located around 130 kilometres South East of Warsaw, the town is on the way to the Baltic and lies on the right bank of the Vistula River. It comprises of 7300 inhabitants and the town boasts of rich history, picturesque medieval houses, wonderful architecture and fine climate and is a popular tourist attraction frequented not only by the Poles but also by nationalities from neighbouring countries as well. In the town centre, there are fine renaissance buildings, and from the ruins of the castles and the hill of three crosses, one can enjoy a panoramic view of this wonderfully landscaped town. Before our visit to the town we had the opportunity of having some fine Polish cuisine at Stara Laznia Hotel which is 200 metres from the Main square. The restaurant specializes in traditional Polish cuisine and also is a historic hotel as it was built in 1921 as a public bath and now is converted into a hotel comprising of 6 fully equipped rooms.




Our next halt was the Baranow Sandomierski Castle which is an ideal place to visit whilst planning a tour to Kazimierz Dolny. Located in the middle section of the Vistula River, the castle, also known as Little Wawel, was a former seat of the Leszcynski family and was built in the late 16th and early 17th centuries and modelled after the Wawel Castle in Krakow. The castle was designed by Santi Gucci and comprises of a rectangular shaped building of three floors ornated in the four corners with distinctive cupolas. Although we arrived at dawn and pretty exhausted after a long day getting out of Warsaw and thru Kazimierz Dolny, our eyes lit up seeing the magnificent architecture of this wonderful castle which is now converted to a hotel and is an excellent location if you wish to be pampered in luxury. It is approximately a two hour drive from Kazimierz Dolny and from here one can visit the Baltowski Jurassic Park, the Wieliczka Salt Mine as well as many other interesting sites. After spending an hour at the Castle, we headed for the night to Krynica Zdroj and the famous Dr Irena Eris Spa Hotel, almost a 3 hour drive from the Baranow Castle where we would be spending the night and on the following day doing a tour of the region of Krynica before heading to the winter capital of Poland.

It was the second day of our trip and we already had covered quite a distance from Warsaw which is in the Mazovian region to Malopolska or the Lesser Poland region into the city of Krynica Zdroj which is approximately 400 kilometres south of Warsaw and 140 kilometres south east from Krakow- the Cultural Capital. After one of the longest days of the tour, we arrived at the four star Hotel Spa Dr Irena Eris located at Krynica Zdroj which is a place to spend atleast a couple of nights.

Krynica-Zdroj is a region comprising of 13000 inhabitants and is one of the biggest spa towns in Poland besides being a winter sports centre as well. In fact the region is known as the Pearl of the Polish Spas and the town has also hosted the World Ice Hockey Championship way back in 1931. For over a decade, the mountain range of Jaworzyna Krynicka has become a major attraction especially after the gondola lift was installed here in 1997 which takes you on top of the mountain to give you a very picturesque view of Krynica. Equipped with modern skiing facilities, the mountains are a perfect setting for cross country skiing in winters and mountain biking as well as hiking during summers.

As we were extremely hungry and we had arrived at the hotel almost nearing midnight, we headed straight for the restaurant known as “Sixth Sense” for a late night buffet comprising of a wide range of salads, soup along with a variety of vegetarian and non-vegetarian cuisine with some fine dessert to end a very long day. The Sixth Sense restaurant serves a wide range of Greek, Italian, Hungarian and Old Polish cuisine especially on the weekends and the sumptuous food indeed was a great way to end our day! We were looking forward to the morning to explore more of this beautiful region.After breakfast and a quick site inspection, we headed for the Jaworzyna Krynicka ski station which was in close proximity to our hotel to take the gondola lift up the mountain




During our site inspection of the hotel property, we got to know a few interesting facts not only about the property but also of the region. Krynica Zdroj has over 200 years of tradition and is one of the premier spa areas due to its favourable bioclimate, natural landscape, richness of highly mineralized water as well as centuries old tradition of offering healing solutions to health problems.Traditionally, Polish health spas date back to the 13th Century and the spas are not only for those with health problems but also for those seeking peace and relaxation and the tranquility that one gets to experience in this very picturesque region of natural beauty. Krynica Zdroj is an ideal location for health resorts as it is famous for its medical mineral water springs. The vicinity offers picturesque landscapes of the Beskid Sadecki Range. In winter, it is a haven for ski lovers as there is snow all around and ski tracks with different severities for amateur skiers. The Hotel Spa run by Dr Irena Eris is one of the premier properties of the region and belongs to the International Spa Association




Besides wellness programmes ranging from a weekend to a week long programme, the Spa Hotel also offers yoga programmes, slimming programmes and programmes for “mums-to-be” as well as “just married” programmes for honeymooners at great value starting as low as EUR 1250 per couple (which is a mere 625 Euros per person) and you get a great deal comprising of 5 nights accommodation on a full board basis with complimentary glass of wine during dinners, spa and beauty treatments, massages, unlimited access to all amenities at the hotel, cable car ride on top of the mountain range and transfer from the railway station to the Hotel as well. Besides the “Sixth Sense” restaurant, the property has the Lachowka Chalet where you can enjoy a barbecue along with traditional music from the Polish mountains. Then there is the Lamus Club which provides a relaxing evening with live music on Saturday evenings and you can enjoy some fine cuisine with vintage alcohol and elaborate cocktails till the wee hours of midnight. “By the fireplace” pub is the ideal place to relax after a work out or a trek or hike in summer or after skiing in the mountains during winter.




The hotel also houses a 3 storey Dr Irena Eris Skin Care Institute comprising of 19 treatment rooms including beauty parlours, massage rooms with a complete menu of massages, a dermatologist surgery and a solarium as well. The Spa Hotel is truly the ideal place to pamper yourself in luxury without paying an exorbitant price which you would pay for similar category of luxury resorts in Western Europe.




It was very difficult for us to leave this lovely resort as we were all keen on experiencing a spa treatment however there was lots in store for us on day 3 of Pulsating Poland. We checked out after a healthy breakfast to take the cable car up the Jaworzyna Krynicka Station which is located at an altitude of 1114 metres.As it was end of summer, we had some excellent weather with ambient temperatures ranging around 15°C with lots of greenery around. The best way to go up and get a scenic view is by the cable car, although active holidaymakers can follow a bike trail criss crossing the mountain range or do a hike which will take you up in a couple of hours. Once you are on top of Jaworzyna Krynicka range, you can enjoy some warm beer with honey at the bar on top of the mountain and along with it have some fine polish pastries without feeling guilty, especially if you are burning a few calories after a hike or trek along the mountain range. Interestingly, at the gondola station as well as on top of the range there were statues of various species of dinosaurs, probably indicating that the place was waiting to be discovered from the times of the Jurassic period.




The view from up above is stunning and on a clear day you can get a panoramic view of the Beskidy, Pieniny as well as the Tatra Mountains. After spending 20 odd minutes clicking pictures, we took the cable car back down to head to our next destination- Hotel Klimek which is in another picturesque region of the Beskid Sadecki Range known as Muszyna Zlockie. As we were driving from Krynica to Muszyna, the drive was very scenic as Krynica is located in the south-eastern part of the Beskid Sadecki range and is surrounded by forested mountains in a protected zone which is at an altitude ranging between 550 and 725 metres. The region is surrounded by the remains of the former Carpathian Primeval Forest.




Muszyna is located at the river junctions of Poprad, Muszynka and Sczawniczk Hotel Klimek is a modern luxurious four star hotel which was opened in 2005 and has won a few awards for being one of the finest property of the region. Hotel Klimek is yet another fantastic spa resort with quaint surroundings where you can spend five to six days. This family friendly resort is equipped with a restaurant where we had some fine Polish and European cuisine with ample vegetarian options. Besides, a restaurant and a pub, the property has a club room, a billiard room, a fitness club, a bowling alley, a salt grotto, a tennis court, a children's playground, an open-air grill, wide range of spa services and the highlight especially for the family is the aqua-park within the property comprising of swimming pool equipped with cascades and hydro-massage, air geyser, slide, children's pool, dry and wet sauna, Jacuzzi, needle bath and a saline graduation tower as well.




The highlight for us undoubtedly was the Salt Cave where we took a power nap for about 30 odd minutes before heading to the Mall in Krynica. The Salt Cave is the latest and an original method of using marine salt from the Dead Sea for rehabilitation, prevention and health care. The cavern has a unique microclimate and the air is filled with mineral and microelements. You can simply shut your eyes and relax in deckchairs with soft soothing music playing in the background which relieves stress and rejuvenates you after a short session comprising of a unique color therapy system along with a combination of warm light which stimulates you for the rest of the day. The salt cave has curative effects and ideal for those who come for prolonged sessions of treatments.




Our next stop was the Mall in Krynica which is a row of shops where you get local goods of the region . The region of Muszyna comprises of about 5000 inhabitants and is very close to the Slovakia border and from the 14th century onwards has been an important trade and communication route connecting Hungary with Poland. Later in the 20th century it became a spa town due to the curative properties of the springs at that time.




Our last stop was at the town centre of Krynica Zdroj which is having an architecture from the 19th Century that stays in harmony with the surrounding nature- an ideal place for healing processes. The main sanatoria, the pump room and the spa houses are located around the Dietla Boulevards and the entire atmosphere is unique. We did do some mineral water tasting at one of the halls. The natural water had the essence of the various minerals which cures a wide variety of ailments. It was nearing 5 pm and we left for the e winter capital Zakopane which was approximately 2 hours west from Krynica at a distance of 81 odd kilometers along the Slovakia border....







ZAKOPANE, PIENINY & TATRA MOUNTAINS






We arrived into Zakopane at around 7.30 pm and checked in at the Litwor Hotel which is located in the heart of Zakopane between Krupówki Street and the town park. Litwor Hotel was the first ever four star hotel in Zakopane and the Podhale region and is ideal for family stays as well as weekend breaks. After checking in at the hotel, we walked to the other end of the Krupówki Street for a folk dinner at Gazdowo Kuznia, a restaurant which is located in one of the oldest buildings in Zakopane which was built in 1891. The place is of historical importance as this place was the site of the first hotel in town. As we entered we could feel the ambience of a typical highlander place and the cuisine served comprised of unique local recipes prepared with the old tradition of Polish cooking- the highlander way.The town of Zakopane which is known as the winter capital of Poland was discovered in the mid 19th century as a poor village at the foot of unknown mountains and today it has grown into a symbolic and significant place not only for people of Poland but also for visitors across the globe. Today, Zakopane is Poland's best known centre for recreation and rest, an excellent cultural and sporting venue and receives over 3,5 million tourists every year even though it has a population of a mere 28800 inhabitants.




The oldest part of the town, known as Nawsie, is full of old wooden buildings and at the intersection of Krupówki and Koscieliska Streets, you will find the first parish church built here known as the Stary Kosciólek or the Old Church. As a whole, Nawsie which is also known as the Old Town of Zakopane forms one of the most important complexes of wooden architecture in Poland. The Krupowki Street where we were staying is one of the most well known pedestrian streets in Poland where vehicles are prohibited. The street is busy especially in the evenings as it is an ideal place to take a stroll, shop around or enjoy some fine cuisine at the various restaurants located along either side of the street. At the entrance of the street is a neo-Gothic style parish church of the Holy Family and has been the main place of worship for the locals. As one moves towards the other end and near the Litwor Hotel, there is a stream of water running leading to a wooden building comprising of the Group of Building Schools where there is a tradition of running a Timber Industry School here since 1876. Another significant building is the Tatra Museum Poland's oldest regional museum dating back to 1889 which has an extensive collection of natural, ethnographic and artistic interests documenting the rich history of the Tatra Mountains.




Today, Zakopane is one of the most popular tourist towns in Poland and it was in the second half of the 19th century that Zakopane was discovered as a tourist attraction. The first use of skis in Zakopane was in 1892 and the first major ski competition was held here in 1909. Later Zakopane has hosted 3 World Ski Championships in 1929, 1939 and in 1962 as well. Zakopane has also hosted Ski Jump World Cups and several Nordic and Alpine European cups.In summer too, Zakopane is an excellent region for adventure activities especially rock climbing in the Wysokie (High) Tatras with stunning views of the valleys and hills surrounding Zakopane. The authentic folklore of the highlanders of the Podhale region is one of the major attractions for tourists. The Krupowki Street itself is a busy place lined up with cafes, jazz and rock concerts in cellars and a very colourful crowd especially in the evenings where you have artists displaying their creativity with fine art, calligraphy and is the ideal place to spend your evenings on this very vibrant street. We met a local guide who had been to India and he compared Zakopane to Manali in India which is up north in Himachal Pradesh.




The following morning we left Zakopane to explore the region of the Pieniny and Tatra Mountains. Our first stop was at the Pieniny National Park and more specifically at the Sromowce Wyzne village from where we would go river rafting on the Dunajec river. The Pieniny National Park which covers 6096 hectares and borders Slovakia was declared a National Park in 1932. In fact the Pieniny was not only the first national park in Poland but also the first international protected area in Europe. The best way to appreciate the attractive and scenic areas of the Pieniny Mountains is taking a raft on one of the wooden canoes down the Dunajec River. Rafting across the Dunajec gorge is the best way to visit the Pieniny National Park. The rafting season lasts from April until the end of October and there are two routes that one can take from the rafting marina located at Sromowce-Katy. The first route takes you to Szczawnica which is 18 kilometres long and is for 2 hours 15 minutes and the longer route comprising of 23 kilometres takes you to Kroscienko which is for a duration of 2 hours 45 minutes. We did a cruise lasting 2 hours as we traversed the National Park; on one side we had Slovakia and on the other side Poland. The Dunajec river is 274 kilometres long running thru Slovakia for 27 kilometres and through Poland for 247 kilometrs covering in all an area of 6804 sq.kilometres.




The Pieniny mountains are mainly built from limestone and you see these perpendicular walls on either side rising from the Dunajec River. The most famous peak is the Trzy Korony or the Three Crowns which rises 982 metres above sea level. However, the highest point which rises roughly 9000 feet is on the Slovakian side. The length of the whole mountain range is about 54 kilometres with a width of around 18 kilometres. The Pieniny also forms part of the Carpathian which is one of the biggest mountain ranges in Europe. The mountain has an alpine character with jagged peaks which are generally covered in snow during winter. The Tatra mountains are divided into three parts: The first part is the White Tatras which is predominantly within Slovakia and is built of limestone. Then comes the High Tatras and are part of the Eastern Tatra Mountains on the Poland-Slovak border. And then there is the Western Tatras which is lower down. In the Polish side of the Tatras there is over 250 kilometres of marked trails for walkers and hikers who wish to explore the area. There are plenty of activities in the area; skiing in winter, paragliding, mountain biking.




You can even go and explore more than 700 caves in the area which are accessible mostly with the help of professional guides. Another popular sport in the Tatras is ski jumping and it was Adam Malysz the famous Polish ski jumper who made this sport extremely popular. Malysz has won over 38 World Cup competitions and was the only ski jumper ever to win the World Cup 3 times in a row. In fact ski jumping is so popular that for certain international events in the Tatras there are as many as 50000 spectators from across the world who come here to witness the event of ski jumping. Later in the day we had the opportunity to see some of the ski jump slopes and children probably as young as 7 and 8 years who were practicing ski jumping probably for some tournament. It was indeed interesting to see the focus amongst these youngsters who wanted to be part of major international events as they were intensely practicing and well equipped with their skis.




One of the most popular peaks of the Tatras is Kasprowy Wierch which is 1987 metres above sea level and can only be reached by cable car. The Kasprowy Wierch summit forms part of the main ridge of the Tatra Mountains and has several walking trails and the region is thronged by skiers in winter. The summit is reached by probably one of the oldest cable cars in the world which was built in 1935. The summit station also has a restaurant and nearby there is a meteorological observatory as well. We were unlucky as the cable car to Kasprowy Wierch was closed in September and was likely to open around Christmas.Hence, on the agenda was to visit the Gubalówka Mountain on the following day which offers a great panoramic view of the Tatras as well.The Pieniny besides being surrounded by the mountain ranges has various species of plants including over 600 kinds of mushrooms. No wonder mushroom is always part of the meal of this region.




There are 6500 animal species within the Pieniny, and I am sure most of them were within the dense forest as we coasted along the Dunajec River. The lynx and the otter thrive in this region. The area has over 34 kilometres of walking paths within the park and from peaks such as Sokolica and Trzy Korony you can get excellent views of the Pieniny, Dunajec and the Tatra Mountains.After 2 hours of rafting, we were all quite hungry and we stopped to enjoy some fine Polish cuisine about 20 minutes away at the Karcma U Borzanka restaurant located in Nowy Targ. Nowy Targ is the capital of the Podhale mountain region in southern Poland and its name denotes “new market”. The town is situated at the confluence of the Bialy and Czarny Dunajec rivers.




Karcma U Borzanka is an 18th Century Inn, the oldest in Nowy Targ and specializes in Polish and regional cuisine. The restaurant can accommodate 310 guests in 3 dining halls comprising of a cellar, ground floor and an attic. It is a child friendly place as there is a play ground for children, a summer garden and ample space to park your vehicle. The restaurant serves some fine cuisine and it was a pleasure to experience the warm hospitality extended by Kasia and Andrzej, the owners of the restaurant. This award winning restaurant has won a second place in a competition comprising the entire area from Kraków to Zakopane and from Tarnów to Kalwaria as one of the fine places to experience some authentic Polish and regional cuisine- a must visit for tourists to this region.




Later we headed for Zakopane and we strolled along Krupówki Street before heading to an interesting dinner along with folkloric music and dance at Restaracja Bakowo Zohylinia Niznio. The restaurant is located not too far from downtown Zakopane in a wooden highland building within a garden. We were welcome with some highlander tea and warm wine which was followed by a sumptuous Oscypek or highlander cheese from barbecue and cranberry and Moskol which is the highlander potato pancake with garlic butter which was followed by a wide variety of main courses and some fine desserts. The highlanders indeed have a huge appetite or one must say that they serve a lot and it appeared as if the food was for the kings and royalties looking at the huge portions served during every meal that we had in this region. The following morning we visited the Gubalowka Mountain which is at an altitude of 1120 metres above sea level and is one of the highest points in Zakopane. We took a cable car down hill and thereafter headed to see the Jaszczurowka wooden church which is peculiar to this region and we got to see a lot of typical highlander architecture on our way to the Strazyska Valley where we headed next to see the Siklawica waterfall.




Zakopane is one of the very few places in Poland where the old tradition is being practiced of wearing the old traditional costumes and you will find in many traditional restaurants of the region where these costumes are worn by the people as well as they are worn during special occasions such as weddings and festivals and you will find the folk music being played at various restaurants which is peculiar to this area. In August every year there is an International Festival of Highland Folklore in Zakopane which runs for about 2 weeks where groups from different parts of Europe and as far as even Tibet come and participate.




Interestingly, the lowest part of the town in Zakopane is at an altitude of 800 metres and due to its topography, you are walking either uphill or downhill and you do not have any areas where there are flat walks in the region. On our arrival at the Tatra National Park, which is located in the southern part and borders Slovakia, we took a short stroll to the Strazyska Valley to see the waterfall. The Tatrzañski or Tatra National Park has around 250 kilometres of marked trails and within the park there are valleys which start at the northern limits of the Tatras. The Tatra National Park along with is Slovak equivalent is part of the UNESCO's biosphere preserve today. There are various valleys such as the Bailego Valley, the Dolina ku Dziurze or towards the Hole Valley but with limited time in hand we took a short stroll along the Strazyska Valley which undoubtedly is the most popular and one of the most scenic valleys within the national park.




The trail comprises of rich beech-fir forest where you find dolomite rock protrudes and on the way back we stopped at one of the shepherd's huts which houses a small cafe to have a warm cup of tea as it does get a bit nippy in the midst of the forest especially in September. The entire walk was indeed refreshing and built the necessary appetite for lunch at the Belvedere Hotel. En route we did a brief halt at Wielka Krokiew, the ski jumping site to click a few pictures and also admire the intensity with which young children were practicing ski jumps on slopes built to challenge amateurs as well as professionals. Wielka Krokiew is not only a regular ski jumping site hosting World Cup level events but it is also historical as in 1997, Pope John Paul II celebrated a mass at the hill station during his visit to this native country. Ski jump is as popular in this region as cricket is in India. Our last halt en route was at the historic Belvedere Hotel which is a 4 star property, undoubtedly the best hotel in Zakopane where Aamir Khan, Kajol and the crew of Fanaa, the Bollywood movie stayed during the film shoot at one of the most stunning locations of Poland.




The Belvedere Hotel is located in the vicinity of the Tatra Mountains National Park and is an ideal place to relax. The hotel is fully equipped with spa, swimming pool as well as a rejuvenation centre comprising of a Health and Beauty institute, an aqua thermal centre and for lovers of sports, there is virtual golf, bowling as well as pool billiards on offer. There are several conferences organized here all year round as there are excellent conference facilities available. There are some fine restaurants and we lunched at the mountain view terrace restaurant which offers excellent regional cuisine and fantastic view of the mountains close by where you can go skiing in the winter season.The highlight for me on the last day in Zakopane before heading for Krakow was undoubtedly the wooden church of Jaszczurowka with its chapel which was built around 100 years ago and is a masterpiece of fine wooden architecture. The shingled steep roofed structure was put together without use of any nails and is part of the wooden trail in Poland and has also been added to the list of the UNESCO World Heritage sites in 1993 along with five other wooden churches in Southern Poland. An abundance of high quality timber was used to built its interiors and the walls and ceilings are covered with woodcarvings dating back to the 15th century.After lunch we headed to the cultural capital and one of the most beautiful cities of Poland- Krakow...







KRAKOW - The Cultural and Tourism Capital of POLAND



After getting various glimpses of what Poland has to offer, our last leg of the itinerary before returning back to Warsaw for our onward flight was a visit to Krakow, which is undoubtedly Poland's tourism and cultural capital Krakow was also the former capital of Poland between the 11th and the 17th Century. Krakow lies to the south of Poland on the Vistula River and the drive from Zakopane to Krakow takes a little over 2 hours to cover the distance of 110 kilometres. We arrived into Krakow at around 7.00 pm and on arrival checked in at the Andel's Hotel Cracow, which is centrally located near Krakow's beautiful Old Town, merely 100 meters from the train station and more importantly for the shopaholics from India, it is just opposite Krakow's newest shopping centre.




We were impressed by the chic and contemporary design of the property right from the lobby to the restaurants and the rooms of the hotel as the Andel's in Krakow was designed by a famous duo of architects Jestico + Whiles who had also designed the first Andel's Hotel in Prague and also the PVR multiplexes in Gurgaon, Hyderabad and Juhu, Mumbai amongst a wide range of other international marvels of architecture. Not only the lobby was impressive, but the rooms too had contemporary design and were fully equipped with a 32? flat screen TV, DVD player, WLAN, full climate control, minibar, safe and a spacious bathroom as well. This fine 4 star property is highly recommended for those who want to stay in the city centre in close proximity to the Old Town as well as close to the main station and shopping centre. Commuting within Krakow is very convenient as a single trip ticket valid on a bus or a tram costs 2.50 PLN (Polish Zlotys) which is equivalent to INR 45 approx or you could purchase a 24 hour pass which costs 10.40 PLN or INR 190 approx. If you want to explore the city on your own then you can also purchase the Krakow Tourist Card valid for 2 or 3 days that gives you access to public transport as well as free entry in up to 32 Krakow Museums as well. The card is also valid on the city bus route which takes you to Krakow International Airport. A 2 day card costs PLN 45 (INR 820 approx) or a 3 day card would cost you PLN 65 (INR 1185 approx) which would take care of your commuting as well as visits to the museums .




After checking in we took the tram to the Jewish Old Town of Kazimierz for some Jewish dinner. The Ariel restaurant which serves Jewish cuisine with a live Klezmer Music concert has a dining room which seats 50 persons and a meal can cost you in the vicinity of 30 Euros which is approximately INR 1900 .Worth an experience for those who haven't had Jewish cuisine and would like to experience a combo of a Jewish meal and a concert - a unique experience indeed. We had two days in Krakow and our agenda for the first half of the following day was to visit the UNESCO enlisted Wieliczka Salt Mine. Located 10 kilometres from Krakow, you can reach the Salt mines by a local train or a minibus and it takes you 40 minutes to reach the oldest salt establishment in Poland which has been functioning since the Middle Ages and today is one of the most popular Polish tourist attraction receiving over 1 million visitors every year.




The Salt Mine at Wieliczka was enlisted with UNESCO in 1978 and in 1994 was acknowledged as a National History Monument by the President of Poland. Spread over 9 levels underground, the mine reaches to the depth of 327 metres and consists of over 300 kilometres of corridors comprising of more than 3000 chambers. The tourist route is accessible for a stretch of 3.5 kilometres located from 60 to 135 metres below ground level. This architectural marvel comprises of underground lakes and excavations, chapels carved in salt, sculptures and bas-reliefs which leaves every visitor in awe especially to see life in an underground city with a restaurant, a post office, telephone booths and souvenir shops with internet access and use of mobile phones at 125 metres below ground level, thus providing the right blend of tradition with technology.




There are salt mines across the world, but what makes Wieliczka special is that besides being one of the oldest mines, the mine itself is so enormous and comprises of magnificent sculptures made of salt. The salt mine has the unique distinction of being featured in the Guinness Book of World Records as the first ever underground hot air balloon flight was performed in one of its enormous chambers. Also the first ever underground bungee jump has taken place within the Salt Mine and that tells you the depth of each chamber within the Salt Mine. The Salt Mine has been host to some famous personalities such as Copernicus, Pope John Paul II and Goethe, to name a few. The most beautiful of all the chambers is the one which houses the St. Kinga's Chapel as well as a reproduction of Da Vinci's The Last Supper which is simply stunning. The chamber has hosted many weddings and parties and are ornated with chandeliers which illuminates the fine work around the chamber. The floor is of course, salt, but it appears to be as smooth as marble and the masterpieces on display took 3 miners almost 70 years to complete. The chamber was laid out in 1896 after the excavation of a huge green salt block and is 54 metres long, almost 18 metres wide and 10 to 12 metres in height. The fine work within this chamber is that of the Morkowski Brothers and Antoni Wyrodek.




Salt was mined here in Wieliczka from the Middle Ages until 1996. Until 1772, the salt mine in Wieliczka was the property of the Duke of Krakow and then the king of Poland. Post 1772 and until 1918, the mines were administered by Austrian authorities and then became the property of Poland after Poland regained its independence. A visit to the mine can take almost 2 hours and the mine can only be visited with a guide. The temperature within the mine is stable at around 14 degrees celcius and it is advisable to wear a jacket to feel comfortable during your visit. As it is one of the most popular tourist attractions, the best time to visit the mine would definitely be in autumn and winter as it can get quite crowded during spring and summer.




Social events such as conferences, banquets, weddings, New Year's Eve Ball, concerts as well as sport performances can be organized in the mine. There is also an Underground Rehabilitation and Treatment Centre situated in the Lake Wessel Chamber for those who wish to be cured from upper respiratory tract problems and allergies. To see the entire mine it would take almost an entire week and that too would not be sufficient and although we saw just 1% of the mine, it left us completely awestruck. A visit to the mines is a must for all those who visit Poland and especially Krakow.




After our visit to the mine and a lunch at Pizza Hut, we did a site inspection of one of the most beautiful hotel properties not only in Krakow and Poland but probably across the globe. I am referring to the Copernicus Hotel located on the calm and picturesque Kanonickza Street. This unique property combines the old and the new, its Gothic history is as ancient as the history of the street where it is located. It was opened to the public only in the year 2000 and the building where it is located once hosted the intellectual and financial elite of Krakow which was Poland's capital at that time. Apparently, Nicolas Copernicus, the famous Polish astronomer himself was one of the guests and that's why the name is quite apt for one of the most interesting monuments of medieval residential architecture in the city. During the renovation of this property, objects of historical value were discovered and preserved and today, they are part of its superb interior design and d?r. The hotel comprises of 29 rooms which are furnished in mahogany and exotic woods from Peru and Africa with beautiful Iranian, Afghan and Pakistani rugs that add a splash of colour to its dark hardwood floors of the rooms and hallways. A stay at the Copernicus Hotel is highly recommended for the discerning traveller.




We had time to inspect another hotel of historical importance - The Grand Hotel which is located in the heart of the Old Town, a mere 50 metres away from the Main Square. The Grand Hotel has been in existence since the 19th Century and is one of the finest luxury properties located within a set of buildings that dates back to the Middle Ages. The hotel is a popular place not only with heads of states, monarchs and royalties but also with film crew, actors, writers, scientists and businessmen. The city of Krakow indeed has several properties of historical importance and you need atleast 5 days to explore this beautiful city including its environ such as Wieliczka Salt Mines, and also Auschwitz which is located at the estuary of the Sola to Vistula River in the southern Oswiecismska Valley and was the largest concentration camp between 1940-45 during Hitler's Germany. You could also do a day trip to Zakopane, the Winter Capital as well as visit Czestochowa to see the Jasna Gora Monastery - one of the holiest places in Poland and an important destination from pilgrims across the globe especially to visit the Chapel of the Black Madonna. The Jasna Gora Monastery is located 90 minutes northwest of Krakow and has been the spiritual hub of Central Europe for six centuries and is the third largest Catholic pilgrimage site in the world.




After couple of site visits it was time for dinner and we stopped at Pod Krzyzykiem right in the heart of the city for some of the finest Polish cuisine that you will find in Krakow. Krakow is a city for the young and trendy and you find plenty of pubs and bars where you can relax, have a drink and enjoy some fine music till the wee hours of the morning. Krakow has the reputation of having the highest density of bars in the world and you will find hundreds of bars in cellars and courtyards stretching from the Old Town to Kazimierz and although Krakow receives a lot of tourists, most of the places offer extremely good value as we found out whilst going pub and bar hopping. You could get a large beer for 5 Zlotys (PLN). The following day we had lots of exciting tours lined up for us.





After a long day and a late night, we did a tour of the Old Town in the morning on our penultimate day in Poland and our last day in Krakow. The Old Town of Krakow was built by many generations of artists from Medieval, Renaissance, Baroque and Art Nouveau times and is truly a treasury of World Heritage. Lined up on Krakow's main square of Rynek Glowny you will find the horse carriages who are in no rush and not far away you see the Wawel Hill which overlooks this beautiful city. On Wawel Hill stands the Renaissance Royal Castle and the Wawel Cathedral which has witnessed the crowning and burial of Polish Kings. Also known as the national Pantheon, this area has also been the place of burial for eminent artists and national leaders. The St. Adalbert's Church on the Main Market Square of the Old Town and the St. Andrew's Church date from Poland's early Middle Ages, the 10th and the 11th Centuries. The town is flocked by several students across the world as it is a place of higher education and also is the home to one of Europe's oldest Universities- the Jagiellonian University, founded in 1364. We had the opportunity to visit this historic building and later in the Old Town hear the hourly bugle call from the tower of the Gothic St. Mary's Church which has richly ornamented interiors with the high altar carved in wood, a masterpiece of Gothic art. The St. Mary's Basilica is in Gothic style and was built in the 14th Century.

It stands over 262 feet tall and is adjacent to the main market square and the interior of the church is particularly famous for its wooden altarpiece which was carved by Veit Stoss during the latter part of the 15th century and is the largest Gothic altarpiece in Europe. Another famous icon of the Old Town is the Cloth Hall, the Renaissance monument of Commerce and one of the oldest shopping malls which has been in existence for over 700 years in the Main Market Square. Around the square you have over 750 bars and restaurants which lend the old town Krakow its mix of Gothic, Romantic and Renaissance elements. Nearby is Kazimierz, the area that was once inhabited by the largest Jewish community in Europe and today Kazimierz hosts concerts and exhibitions that display Jewish tradition. Krakow was once part of the “Amber Road” which used to run from Rome to the Baltic Coast along the Vistula River and here you find many articles made of Amber even today and you can get it at a good price as well. Besides being on the trade route, Krakow from the 11th until the 16th Century, was the political centre of Poland as its capital. The capital was later moved to Warsaw in 1596. The city of Krakow is also a great spiritual centre with more than 111 churches and over 20 seminaries. Krakow which has around 770000 inhabitants receives 6 million tourists every year and is estimated to go up to 9 million visitors by 2009. Krakow's Old Town was included in the UNESCO World Heritage list in 1978. With the largest market square in Europe, historical houses and churches with fine interiors and fascinating history of its fortification, the oldest University as well as the medieval site of Kazimierz with its ancient synagogues and the Wawel Cathedral is what makes the Old Town worthy of its UNESCO listing.As you drive around the old historical centre, it is surrounded by a narrow dark path which reaches to about 100 metres in width and in some places around 200 metres and which extends to about 4 kilometres. At the end of the 19th century there were demolitions of the fortification remains around the old city centre and what remained were these dark paths. Originally, the old city was protected by tower walls comprising of 6 gates and 43 towers and a large mouth which carried the Vistula river feeding to the nearby mountains. To enter the Old Town you have to drive around it as the Old Town is open for only pedestrians, carriages and vehicles carrying goods for the various stores within the Old Town. Krakow is the only big city which wasn't destroyed during the Second World War. The city was never bombed and there were no battles here. The Castle became the residence of the Governor and the official residence of the Government when it was taken over by the Germans during the Second World War. Fifty years of communism were very difficult for the preservation of heritage due to the heavy pollution which was related to the presence of the new big foundry and aluminum factory. The state owned the property and most of the houses. After the war, houses were not renovated for 50 years. Everything was renovated mostly after 1989. Krakow is not only a tourist centre but there are industries as well such as the pharmaceutical industry, information and sciences, telecommunications, centre for the two most important web service providers in the country and there is alsoan electromechanical industry.

Krakow is a big study centre with over 100000 students every year who study in Krakow's schools and Universities, some state owned and some private. The Jagiellonian University, one of the oldest in Europe is where over 41000 students study every year. Recently the University has been extended and new faculties have been added. As we took a short tour of the University, the guide told us that in the late 15th Century a very young boy came here from Poland to study and he was from a very rich family of merchants. He paid for all his 4 years of study in advance and his name was Nicolaus Copernicus. After studying here for 3 years he moved to Italy. From Copernicus times Poland had one of the most famous traditions of Science and Astronomy. Even foreign students study here as some of the faculties are in English and one of the famous faculties is medicine which is cheaper to study here compared to Western Europe or even Scandinavia and on the other hand the level of teaching is very good indeed. The Wawel Hill was the residence of the Polish Kings from the 11th to the 16th Century and this was built by Italian architects. Krakow was a multi-national city with Italians, Germans, Jews, Armenians, Hungarians, Czechs, amongst other nationalities during the 16th century and it still continues to be one of the most cosmopolitan cities in Poland. The city started its existence from the footsteps of the castle and slowly moved northwards. After a visit to the Old Town, we embarked on the horse carriage which took us up the Wawel Hill to see the Wawel Castle and Cathedral. It is said that people lived on the Wawel Hill as early as 50000 years ago and the settlements were that of traders with assorted crafts with farming. The rulers of Poland took up their residence here during the early 16th Century and then the splendid Renaissance Castle cum Palace was created. The Wawel Cathedral was the coronation site of Polish monarchs and lies adjacent to the Royal Castle and is the most interesting place to visit with its 1000 year old history. The Cathedral houses objects of art from Gothic to Renaissance and Baroque.








Our next stop was on the Vistula river from where you get one of the best views of the Wawel Hill. Our cruise took us along the Vistula river and after having lunch on the cruise boat we visited the Galeria Krakowska, one of the trendiest shopping malls in Krakow which houses all the well known international brands besides displaying the latest apparels thru fashion shows organized within the Galeria. There are regular events organized at the Galeria and one can spend the entire day shopping and getting excellent deals at better value than you would find in similar malls in Western Europe. We then boarded the Intercity train which took us to Warsaw. The train ride between Krakow and Warsaw takes under 3 hours. On our last day we had the opportunity to meet some of the local Tour Operators and visiting the Arkadia shopping mall before having our last Polish meal in Delicja Polska which serves traditional Polish cuisine. It was time to say goodbye to our hosts, the Polish Tourist Organization who ensured that we got the flavour of this wonderful country and we also gathered that there is lots more that Poland has to offer to travellers across the globe such as the Tricity along the Baltic coast or the several national parks that this wonderful country boasts of. Many head back home and some of us flew to Berlin to explore the beautiful region of Saxony which lies in former East Germany.





concluded




Sunday, July 13, 2008

TURKISH DELIGHTS - FROM F1 to the AEGEAN SEA














ISTANBUL - THE CITY IN TWO CONTINENTS

The exhilarating F1 experience in Istanbul
In 2006, Turkish Airlines or Turk Hava Yollari had started their flights directly from Mumbai to Istanbul and that was great news for the Indian travellers who could now in mere 6 hrs 30 minutes reach directly from Mumbai into Istanbul and into the country known as the Cradle of Civilization. We at Compact Travels were promoting the F1 Grand Prix in Istanbul and to get a first hand experience, I planned a visit to Istanbul to see the second edition of Grand Prix being held in Istanbul . Along with me were a reporter and a photographer of a leading TV news agency who were hosted by Compact Travels to see the F1 and experience first hand the only city in the world which lies in two continents.
Turkish Airlines flies out of Mumbai three times a week and we took the flight on Saturday, 26th August 2006 from Mumbai at 0455 hours arriving at Istanbul at 0845 hours. The advantage of the morning flight is that you can conveniently connect from Istanbul to other cities within Turkey as well as to various cities in Europe as well as to cities across the Atlantic in the North American Continent.
On arrival in Istanbul, we first had some fine Turkish breakfast at Tamara restaurant which was very close to the Bulvar Palas Hotel where we would be staying until Tuesday after which I would be heading to explore the other places in Turkey whereas my colleagues would head back to Mumbai. Istanbul is a city which lies in two continents - Asia and Europe although the city is comprising of three parts - the European side has the Historical Peninsula to the south of the Golden Horn and the Galata district to the north and then there is the New City on the Asian side. After breakfast and checking in at the hotel, we assembled once again at around 1.00 pm as all of us were eager to witness the qualifying session which was scheduled at around 1400 hours to decide on who would take the Pole Position on Race day. This was the 14th Grand Prix race of the year and though Alonso was leading and so was Renault for the Constructors' Table with both Schumacher and Ferrari in second place, it was indeed a crucial race for Ferrari as well as Schumacher to reduce the gap between Schumacher and Alonso and likewise for Ferrari to reduce the gap with Renault.
Istanbul is a fascinating city to hold such a prestigious event like Formula 1. With a population of over 12 million, the city has a growing history of motor sports after its inaugural event which was held in 2005. Not only for the locals, but visitors to Istanbul can combine the three days of F1 with an extension to see some other fascinating cities in Turkey. Istanbul is an excellent blend of the old and the new with its domes and minarets which dominates the old city and takes you back in time to the days of the Ottoman Empire and Constantinople. The modern city is bustling with activity and you find bars, clubs, shops, cafes and one of the areas which is there to explore wholenight is Taksim Square where you can enjoy fine cuisine and night life as well.
Coming back to the track at Istanbul, whether it's the organizers or the drivers or sponsors, they all agree that the Istanbul Park circuit is undoubtedly one of the best tracks in the world. The 5.378 kilometre track is only the third track after Imola in San Marino and Interlagos in Brazil which goes in the anti-clockwise direction which makes the Istanbul circuit all the more exciting. The circuit has a seating capacity of 130000 but on Race Day it appeared as if there were as many as 200000 people. You could just see a sea of people getting out of the Park and it was an experience that can be truly unmatched to what you see on television. So all you F1 fans, if ever you want to see one of the finest sporting events in spectacular environment, Istanbul is the place to be in.
The only flip side was the scorching heat and I remember on race day the temperature touched 40 degrees. However, there are several activities around the circuit which can help you keep your cool - you can gulp a couple of beers or soft drinks, take a picture in one of the finest cars on display wearing a helmet and posing like a F1 driver or carry home souvenirs of your favourite teams from one of the several merchandise shops. Why not try a Virtual Reality F1 experience or send a video to your families and friends from one of the swanky car stands as if you are reporting live from the F1 circuit. For kids too you can ride something similar to a quad bike or play a few games or enjoy the ambience of 22 cars racing on the circuit at 300 to 330 km/hr.
And to unwind after the race you can experience a Turkish night and see a cultural show or fine belly dancing or even be surprised at some of the talented Turkish singers who sing a few songs in Hindi besides more than 8 to 10 other languages to make you feel at home. Combine it with some fine Turkish cuisine and gulp down a couple of rake which you have to be a little careful and take in a few sips at a time. It may also be a good idea to experience Hamam or the Turkish Bath which is a rejuvenating experience especially at the end of a very hot summer day.
Coming back to the race itself, it was Day 2 and we had missed the practice sessions on Day 1 and we took a longer rest at the Hotel before heading to the Istanbul Park which lies on the south which is on the Asian side of the Bosphorus. We did not expect such heavy traffic heading south and it appeared as if the entire city or probably most of Turkey was heading to the Istanbul Park and we just about reached in time to see the last segment of the Qualifying Session. We were sitting in Tribune 8 Silver which is a good stand as it gives you a very good view of the last curve as well as the start and end of the race. We could also see the Paddock from a distance and whilst entering the Istanbul Park area itself we could hear the roaring of the engines from quite a distance. The arrangements were exceptional - whether it was the security or the shuttle service to take you to the different parts of the Park. The grandstand seats are plentiful and seats are divided as per pricing into the bronze, silver and gold price brackets.
The Pole positions 1 and 2 were taken by Ferrari with Felipe Massa in 1 and Michael Schumacher at No 2 followed by Fernando Alonso and Giancarlo Fisichella of Renault in 3 and 4 respectively. So it was all set for the Race Day on Sunday for the top two teams and top 2 players of each team to compete and we all were eagerly looking forward to see the outcome on the following day of the eventual winner of the Turkish Grand Prix at the end of the 58 laps of the race. After having seen the GP2 which comprised of 34 laps we headed back to the hotel and I decided to get hold of a pair of ear plugs on the following day when the engines would roar louder being the Race Day.
Whilst sharing information with those present at the circuit, we got to know that we missed out on history being made on Day 1 when Sebastian Vettel of BMW became the youngest ever driver to compete in an official Formula 1 session at the age of 19 years when he participated in the First Practice Session. And during the Second Practice Session Vettel recorded the best time which augurs well for him in future Formula 1 events especially when a champion like Michael Schumacher retired at the end of 2006 season. For BMW it was Nick Heidfeld of Germany and Robert Kubica of Poland who eventually took Pole Positions at No 5 and No 8 respectively.
That evening, although we were exhausted after an early morning flight and then a long drive to Istanbul Park especially with the traffic we wanted to experience some night life and we headed to Taksim area which is the place to be especially to try out some Turkish cuisine. We were recommended to visit Hala which is located in the Taksim area on Istiklal Caddesi in the Beyoglu area of Taksim. Beyoglu is the district on the north bank of the Golden Horn and Istiklal Caddesi which means Independence Avenue is in the heart of Beyoglu and is a very modern district where you will find many people even in the wee hours of the night strolling, shopping and snacking in this region. This area is exclusively reserved for pedestrians and comprises of boutiques, restaurants, cafes and galleries and the higher level of the buildings have residential flats. This avenue begins at the Taksim Square which is the main hub of modern Istanbul and on visiting this area especially late in the evening you wouldn't be surprised why Istanbul or rather Constantinople was called the Paris of the East by the 19th Century travellers.
The Taksim Square is one of the busiest areas of Istanbul and on walking this street a couple of hours can just fly by as if you have been here for a few minutes. Hala is one of the many restaurants in this area and on one side of the restaurant you will find a man calling out in Turkish to come and try the hand made Turkish Ice cream whereas on the other side you have a native woman in front of the window rolling out thin dough, something similar to our open tandoor restaurants that you find here in Mumbai. You can try out manti which is the Turkish ravioli served with a local yogurt sauce or even some of the kebabs that they serve and you would not miss your Indian food. The food served here is so good and the quantity is enormous as well and more importantly it offers great value for money. We liked the food so much that the following evening we were once again at Hala trying out some of the dishes that we missed out during the previous night and each one of us relished the Turkish food served to us and I would highly recommend Hala for anyone wanting to experience good Turkish cuisine.
After a long and exhausting day we returned back to the hotel although we would have loved to spend some more time at Taksim Square. It was Sunday, day 2 for us at the Istanbul Park and Race Day and unlike the previous day we did not want to be stuck in traffic and we left immediately after breakfast. To our pleasant surprise we reached in less than an hour and we spend some time in the morning to visit a few merchandise stalls. It was a complete festive environment with a band singing away, some of the finest sports cars on display and there were lot of picture and souvenir collection opportunities. There were several events lined up before the big race which was scheduled to start at 1500 hours. There was the VW Polo Ladies of 8 laps, followed by the GP2 race of 23 laps which is an ideal platform for some of the drivers to showcase their talent to move up to the F1 circuit.
Later, there was the Driver's Track Parade at around 1330 hours and all the 22 participants who would later be competing with one another for the F1 Grand Prix went around the circuit waving at their fans who greeted them with thundering applause and finally the F1 Race was flagged off at 1500 hours to cover 58 laps of the circuit. Felipe Massa who had taken Pole Position came out a winner followed by Fernando Alonso at 2nd and not too far behind in third position was Michael Schumacher. Even though the fastest lap was recorded by Michael Schumacher, it was after the pit stop that Schumacher took that Alonso got the opportunity to take the lead and pipped Schumacher at the post for the no 2 spot. Coincidentally, the results for the F1 at Interlagos in Brazil for the No 1 and 2 positions were similar to the one at Istanbul with Felipe Massa of Ferrari winning and Alonso in 2nd position and Schumacher losing the third position at Interlagos to Jenson Button of Honda by about 5 seconds. Last year's winner Kimi Räikkõnen of Finland racing for McLaren Mercedes had to retire in the first lap itself due to an accident. Eventually it was in Japan that Fernando Alonso took the winning lead for the Driver's Championship in 2006 as well as ensuring that Renault won the Constructor's Championship in 2006 and the Brazilian Grand Prix was a mere formality especially as Alonso finished at the No 2 position ahead of Schumacher.
It was my first F1 experience and I must say that seeing the F1 live is truly a must and there is no better place to experience the F1 than Istanbul especially for Indian fans as it is in close proximity to India and the closest anti-clockwise circuit. Importantly, it gives also gives you the opportunity to explore a wonderful city like Istanbul - the only city in two continents as well as the country which is surrounded by the Black Sea, the Aegean Sea and the Mediterranean Sea.
Napoleon once said, if there is one state in the world, Istanbul would be the capital of it and truly so due to its strategic location and being a city extremely rich in history and civilization. Firstly, it was ruled by the Greek Byzas who discovered the place known as Byzantium in 667 BC, thereafter it became part of the Roman Empire in 64 BC and later the name was changed to Constaninople when Constantine became Emperor in 324 AD. Later it was conquered in 1453 by Sultan Mehmet II and was then called Istanbul. Over the years, the Christians, Muslims and Jews have lived in harmony and created a city rich in culture and architecture - one that is marvelled and remains one of the wonders of the world.
Amongst the greatest sights in Istanbul include the Haghia Sophia Museum, one of the world's greatest building; the Blue Mosque which is believed to have been built by the same stonemasons who helped build the Taj Mahal in Agra; the Topkapi Palace which was the official residence of the Sultans for over 400 years and contains several precious objects in its treasure room and a trip to Istanbul would be incomplete without taking a cruise along the Bosphorus and moving from Asia into Europe and vice versa. There is also the Sülemaniye Mosque and the Dolmabahçe Palace which are also worth visiting. It would be ideal to spend atleast a week in Istanbul as you can also see the Galata Tower, visit the Grand Bazaar as well as Spice Bazaar and experience the interesting sights and sounds of this beautiful city. The advantage of flying Turkish Airlines is that if you are flying onward to Europe or North America, it would be a great idea to take a 3 to 4 days stopover in Istanbul whilst flying west or even a stopover on your way back to India.
So whether it is London, Paris, Berlin, Prague or Athens, you can conveniently combine any one or more cities along with Istanbul and Compact Travels offers unique “twin city” packages with convenient flight connections on Turkish Airlines. And to get the true cultural experience of Turkey you must enjoy fine Turkish cuisine with a cultural show including belly dancing which brings in the true flavour of this wonderful country. The show which comprises of over 90 minutes displays some of the fine forklore dances as well as belly dancing and to keep you involved you are invited on stage to dance with the performers and carry home pleasant memories. You also have a good blend of cross cultures especially if the group that you travel comprise of several nationalities and we had one of the greatest experiences.
During my visit, not only did I witness the F1 but also the Superleague match between home favourities Galatasaray playing with Gaziantepspor at the Ali Sami Yen Stadium in Istanbul. Founded in 1905, Galatasaray is the oldest and most successful club in Turkey and seeing the home support that Galatasaray got, it was a mind boggling experience to be in the midst of over 25000 spectators and a packed stadium to witness one of the exciting games of the Super league encounter which ended eventually in 2-2. If you are in Istanbul and a football fan, I strongly recommend you to find out during your visit whether Galatasaray is playing in Istanbul and you will have one of the most memorable experiences witnessing one of the most popular teams of football in Turkey. Football is huge in Turkey and Turkey is one of the better teams of this high paced sport. We at Compact Travels, besides offering F1 also organized packages to see the UEFA Champions League match in December between Galatasaray and Liverpool and I am sure whether it would have been the Liverpool fans who are no less vocal in their support or the Galatasaray fans it would have been one of the finest spectator events to witness at the Ataturk Olympic Stadium in Istanbul which is the largest stadium on the outskirts of Istanbul with a seating capacity of 75000 spectators.

Istanbul has so much to offer that you need to visit this city time and again. Also worth experiencing would be the Sufi Music Concert and Whirling Dervishes Ceremony also known as the Sema Ceremony which is proclaimed as an intangible World Heritage by UNESCO. The Whirling Dervishes trace their origin to the 13th century Ottoman Empire. The Dervishes, also known as the Mevlevi Order, are Sufis, a spiritual offshoot of Islam. In 1972, Jelaluddin Loras, Sheikh of the Mevlevi Order of America, brought the religion from Turkey to the United States. On December 17, Whirling Dervishes across the world celebrate the birth of Jelaluddin Mevlana Rumi, a mystic poet, who founded the Mevlevi Order. In fact UNESCO will be celebrating the 800th birth anniversary of Rumi this year i.e. 2007.
One of this Turkish Mystic Music and Dance performance can be witnessed at the Sirkeci Train Station near the Seraglio Point beneath the walls of the Topkapi Palace. This train station is also the destination of the famous rail experience known as the Orient Express
The Palace is surrounded with walls around 5 kilometres and the total area is supposed to be twice the size of Vatican.. The Palace which was protected by 28 towers, comprises of 4 enormous courtyards- a magnificent wooden garden fills the outer or first courtyard; the second courtyard had the palace kitchens which now serves as galleries exhibiting imperial collections of crystal, silver and Chinese porcelain. To the left of the second courtyard, there used to be the Harem- the secluded quarters of the wives. The third court yard used to have the Hall of Audience, the Library of Ahmet III and here you can find the exhibition of imperial costumes worn by the sultans and their families, the famous jewels of the treasury and a priceless collection of miniatures from medieval manuscripts. This is the most popular area for the tourists as the collection on display is simply awesome. In the centre of this innermost sanctuary, the Pavilion of the Holy Mantle enshrines the relics of the Prophet Mohammed which was brought to Istanbul by the Ottomans. The most sacred treasure is the mantle once worn by Prophet Mohammed. You will also find the hairs from the beard of the Prophet as well as the letter written by him and an impression of his footprint behind a glass cabinet in the anteroom.
Thereafter we went to see Sultanahmet Imperial Mosque popularly known as the Blue Mosque because of its magnificent interior paneling of the blue and white Iznik Tiles. The Blue Mosque is undoubtedly one of the famous icons of Istanbul and Turkey along with the Hagia Sophia. Located on the west bank of the Golden Horn, the Blue Mosque is one of the most famous religious monuments in the world. It was built during the first quarter of the 17th Century by Mehmet Aga, the imperial architect and the mosque is unique as it comprises of six minarets and it was considered to be an attempt to rival the architecture of Mecca. On the other side of the Blue Mosque is the Haghia Sophia which is separated by the Sultanahmet Square , close to the Hippodrome. The ancient Hippodrome was once a gigantic stadium which now is an elongated public garden. The remains however is quite indicative of the scale of the Hippodrome which used to hold up to 100000 people. The road running around the square was used for chariot racing and today you find three ancient monuments which remain- the first one being the Egyptian Obelisk which used to be in Luxor and was brought here in Istanbul by Constantine and was supposed to have been built in 1500 BC, then you have the Serpentine Column which was brought here from Delphi and is believed to be dated from 479 BC and the last column known as the Column of Constantine, also known as the Brazen Column as it is thought to have been covered with sheets of bronze.
After a long walk, we realized it started to drizzle a bit and we went underground to see the Basilica Cistern. This vast underground water cistern is a very unusual tourist attraction and a fine piece of engineering. Located in the historical peninsula of Istanbul, it is one of the few existing architectural examples built during the 6th Century by Emperor Justinian. The Cistern is 143 metres in length and has a width of 65 metres and has 336 marble columns each being 9 metres high. The capitals of the columns are primarily Ionic and Corinthian styles and the cistern is surrounded by a firebrick wall with a thickness of 4 metres and coatedwith a special mortor for insulation against water. After restoration in 1985 , the cistern has been open to the public since 1987. The experience of walking underground amidst the sounds of dripping water was a total change from the fine architecture that we had seen earlier above ground.
The highlight of the Cistern were the Medusas which were located at the back of the Cistern. There was one upside down Medusa supporting one of the columns and it is believed that the head of the Medusa was placed upside down to ward off evil spirits. Interestingly, a few columns away, there was a second Medusa with the head sideways which was quite mysterious indeed. We were told that certain scenes of the James Bond movie From Russia with Love was shot at the Basilica Cistern also known as the Yerebatan Sarnici or the Underground Cistern. Thereafter we moved above ground to head towards the Grand Bazaar.
What is a Medusa?According to a narration, Medusa was one of the three Gorgons, the female dragons of the underground in Greek Mythology. Of those three sisters only Medusa with snakes for the hair was positive and had the power to turn those that looked at her into stone. Therefore, it is thought that in that period Gorgon-heads, figures and statues were put with an aim to protecting great buildings and special places and Medusa was also placed to ward off evil.
Still, according to another narration, Medusa was a girl that boasted of her black eyes, long hair and graceful figure, who had long been in love with Perseus, the son of Zeus, a Greek idol. In the meantime, Athene, a female idol, was also in love with Perseus and therefore envied Medusa. For that reason, Athene changed Medusa’s hair into horrible snakes. From then on, whomsoever Medusa looked at, he used to be petrified. Later, seeing her in that form Perseus thought in astonishment that Medusa had been bewitched and then he beheaded her. Thereafter, he took her head in his hand and exposed it to his enemies and petrified them and thus won a lot of wars. It is thus rumored that after that event Medusa’s head was engraved –either upside down or in an oblique position - in the handles of swords and on the pedestals of columns in ancient Byzantium.
Here I must add that besides the Blue Mosque, you also have the Sülemaniye Mosque built by the arhictect Sinan above the Golden Horn in the grounds of the old palace as a fitting memory to its founder Süleyman the Magnificent. Built during the 16th Century, Sinan wanted to surpass the magnificence of Hagia Sophia and this is conspicuous from its great size emphasized by the four minarets rising from each of the four corners of the courtyard.
A visit to Istanbul is not complete until you visit the Grand Bazaar and the Spice Bazaar. For us the Spice Bazaar visit was to be done along with the Bosphorus on Tuesday and we therefore went to see the Grand Bazaar which comprises of a labyrinth of streets and passages with more than 4000 shops comprising of goldsmiths, carpet sellers, Turkish Arts and Crafts including hand painted ceramics, copperware, brassware, onyx ware as well as the meerschaum pipes. It is easy to get lost in the bazaar and therefore you need to keep tab of where exactly you entered for in order to find your way out from the correct route especially if you are travelling with a group. The Grand Bazaar offers you a wonderful opportunity to exercise your bargaining skills and at times you can strike good deals if you bargain aggressively.
After a long day we once again moved to Taksim to enjoy some Turkish cuisine. Istanbul as a city has a great choice of international cuisine and you will find a couple of Indian restaurants as well. However it is worth trying the kebab houses and the fish restaurants especially on the shores of the Bosphorus. There are several kinds of kebabs you could try out including the doner kebab which is the roast sliced meat, adana which is the minced meat on a skewer, sis which is cubes of meat and Bursa which is the doner meat with tomato sauce and yoghurt on bread. For vegetarians you can find stuffed vegetables cooked too. Turkish tea, especially the apple flavoured tea is a great delight too and if you want to be extra adventurous you can try Turkey’s national drink – raki which tastes like anise and is transparent and on adding water turns cloudy. The best way to enjoy raki ( also known as "Lion's Milk"), is with thin, cylindrical glasses and cold (about 8 to 10 degrees Celsius). One can drink it straight or with water, soda, or mineral water. Although raki, which is a distilled alcoholic beverage strongly aromatized with anise-seed, can be consumed as a cocktail, more commonly it is preferred with "meze" (Turkish hors d'oeuvres and appetizers) such as Russian salad, garlic sauce, sliced tomatoes and cucumbers, cold-cuts, fried vegetables and pastries or even shrimps. These are usually followed by entrées such as shish kebab, mixed grilled meats, steak, fish (pan-fried, grilled, or oven-baked) and, finally, fruits and desserts. The overwhelming favourite among the Turks, to accompany raki, is the combination of melon and feta-cheese.
The local beer Efes is very popular indeed and probably derives its name from Ephesus- the most famous Roman site in Turkey and you can also try out a Turkish Coffee especially if you know how to drink this very strong beverage. Turkish coffee is drunk slowly and is usually served with a glass of cold water (to freshen the mouth to better taste the coffee before sipping), though sometimes, especially after dinner, with a small glass of mint or liqueur. The thick layer of sludgy grounds at the bottom of the cup is left behind. Turkish coffee grounds are sometimes flavoured with cardamom thus eliminating the need to have the spice added during preparation.
For breakfast the Turkish love to have feta-like cheese, olives, tomatoes, honey, bread and tea. At times they have watermelon and eggs too. One of the finest restaurants to try excellent Turkish cuisine is located in the Spice Bazaar called Pandeli. So you could combine a visit to Spice Bazaar along with lunch at Pandeli although the food is quite pricey.. Pandeli also has one of its branches in Athens, Greece. The following day started with a visit to the Spice Bazaar and the Haghia Sophia Museum and later we were to do the historic Bosphorus cruise before I would take the 1940 hours flight from Istanbul to Kayseri to explore the region of Central Anatolia and specifically Cappadocia.
I was looking forward to visiting the museum of Haghia Sophia. Haghia Sophia which stands for Church of Holy Wisdom was built in 537 AD and is one of the world’s greatest archictectural achievements. It was built by Constantine the Great and later reconstructed by Emperor Justinian. After 916 years as a church, Haghia Sophia was converted into a mosque in 1453, shortly after the conquest by the Ottomans. Apart from whitewashing the paintings and mosaics and removing the Christian icons and statues, the Turks left Haghia Sophia untouched. They committed no acts of destruction as the eighth and ninth century Christian iconoclasts had done. In 1935 the church was transformed into a museum. There are five doors which lead into the Outer Narthex which is the largest in the centre reserved for the Emperor and members of his family. At the entrance of the Narthex is a mosaic which depicts Constantine and Justinian presenting the walled city of Constantinople and Haghia Sophia to the Virgin Mary. There are several other mosaics which ornate the museum. In the upper galleries known as the gynaceum, there are several mosaic panels representing several royalties including Emperor Alexander, the Empress Zoe and her third husband Constantine IX.
Another indication of reverence in which the Turks held Haghia Sophia is the collection of royal tombs in the precinct. The tombs of Mustafa I, Sultan Ibrahim, Selim II, Murat III and Mehmet III are all worth visiting. After a brief halt at the Hagia Sophia, our next stop was at the Spice Bazaar. Also known as the Egyptian Bazaar, it is the second largest covered shopping complex in Istanbul after the Grand Bazaar. The Spice Bazaar or Market was built in 1660 as part of the New Mosque Complex and has been associated with the sale of spices although you may find many souvenir items including the famous “Evil Eye” or the Nazar Boncuk(pronunced as “bon-dschuk”). This little magic stone is one of the most popular souvenirs that you may want to pick up for friends and families as it is said to ward off evil. Besides the Evil Eye, you find a wide range of selection of dry fruits which Turkey is famous for as well as Turkish deserts including the world famous Baklava. In short the Spice Bazaar is a must stop place for shopaholics as well as those who want to carry home memories of this wonderful country.
We quickly moved on thereafter to be part of the Bosphorus Cruise which takes you from one continent to another which makes the city of Istanbul unique. Bosphorus is the name of the strait which forms the boundary between the European part of Turkey to the Asian part also known as Anatolia. The Bosphorus is the narrowest strait used for international navigation and connects the Black Sea to the Sea of Marmara. We took a 90 minute cruise which offered us excellent vantage points to view some of the cities finest landmarks including the Fortress of Europe which was built by Mehmet II in 1452, the 19th Century Baroque style Dolmabahçe Palace and many other palaces as well as houses of some of the rich and famous across the shore of the Bosphorus Strait. We got an excellent view of the Bosphorus bridge which connects the two continents and runs across the strait. The Bosphorus bridge, built in 1973, is world’s ninth longest suspension bridge extending 1074 metres or 3524 feet and is one of the most photographed places when on the Bosphorus cruise. There is a second bridge which is north of the first bridge which runs across the Bosphorus and was built in 1988. It is known as the Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge.
After a relaxing cruise, I was on my way to the airport to take the flight to Kayseri and head to ther landlocked region of Cappadocia and Central Anatolia where I reached late in the evening.
After having experienced the beautiful sights and sounds of Istanbul, I took the Onur Air flight at 1940 hours from Istanbul to Kayseri to head to the region of Central Anatolia and Cappadocia which was included as part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985. I arrived at the Kayseri Airport at around 2100 hours and from there it took around 60 minutes to reach Ürgüp where I was to stay at Dinler Hotel. Dinler is a four star property which overlooks Ürgüp, the centre of Cappadocia and is 80 kilometers fromr Kayseri Airport. Later, I walked into the centre of the town which was just 10 minutes away from the hotel to try some traditional Turkish cuisine.
Cappadocia is a land locked region and comprises of several provinces in a relatively small area of around 300 sq kilometers. The most popular areas are Nevshir, Ürgüp, Avanos and Göreme-the open air museum. The other provinces are Aksaray, Nigde, Kayseri and Kirsehir. The moon-like landscapes of Cappadocia are in fact the result of the erosion of the different layers of the lava spat in the distant past by the Erciyes, Hasandag and Gulludag, the three active volcanoes of the region. The erosion by wind and rain still continues today and makes some parts collapse and others stand out. Small rivers meander in surprisingly beautiful wild canyons lined by the so-called ‘fairy chimneys’. You will be overwhelmed by the astoundingly beautiful array of colours which continuously change according to the time of the day and changing light.
The ancient town of Ürgüp is built at the slope of a rocky hill and you have several cave hotels where you can live in. The hill is made of volcanic tuff and most of the houses were carved out of this soft rock formation. Ürgüp is a fine tourist resort with the town having a beige earth colour which blends well with the rest of the carved rock houses in the region. The entire area is covered with unique land formations and the sudden slopes of colourful gorges, the fairy chimney formations along with natural and man-made human made caves gives the place a unique character.
The fairy-chimneys are in fact tall pinnacles made of tuff with a large rock sitting on the top. They were established through the geological movements and the erosion due to the atmospheric conditions. There are a number of early Christian churches, monasteries and chapels carved out of this volcanic tuff material in the surroundings. The town is known to be the residence to the bishops, during the Middle Ages. It is believed that the amazing landscape of Cappadoccia was created around 25 million years ago with the eruption of volcanoes in this region and the ash remains created the eroded material called tuff which formed distinct formations including the capped-cone ’fairy chimneys ’near Ürgüp. The best way to see the various formations is to start your tour at the Imagination Valley where you see some amazing animal shaped rocks including the mighty King Kong, the head of a dinosaur as well as the camel with its hood which is one of the most photographed sights of the valley.
Around end-August it was extremely warm during the day with the temperature reaching around 400 C. However, the walk around the Imagination Valley was worth the visit inspite of the blistering heat. For a tourist, I would strongly recommend to spend at least 2 nights in Cappadocia so that you can experience exploring the region by Hot Air Balloon and a stay at a cave hotel is highly recommended. One of the best properties to stay is the Elkep Evi Hotel right on top of the hill at Ürgüp near the area of Esbelli which gives you a spectacular view of the region of Capaddocia. For honeymooners, this is the most romantic place to be in and in the morning you can take a Hot Air Balloon and glide through love valley.
In winters, this region is covered by snow and becomes a popular skiing area and one of the exciting ways to explore the region is on horse back as Capadoccia in Persian means the “land of the beautiful horses”. You can also experience the Hamam-Turkish bath at the end of the day to rejuvenate yourself. So, there’s lots to do in Cappadocia.
The volcanic eruptions millions of years ago has made this a rich fertile areas for agriculture and you find grapes, apricots, cherries as well as chick peas and sugar beets grown in this region. The region of Cappadocia is also famous for its wine and at Avanos which is 18 kilometers from Nevshir, there is a tradition of pottery-making which has been in existence for more than 8000 years.
The following morning we did a day long tour starting with the Imagination Valley after which we visited the region of Pasabag which has some of the most amazing forms of chimney in volcanic rock which is synonymous to the region of Cappadocia. Some of these chimneys have twin as well as a triple rock caps and the sight is simply amazing. The other name of this valley is Monks Valley as it is believed that in the 8th century there were many saints who lived here and we visited the house of one such saint - St. Simon.
The house which is in the form of a cave is one of the popular sites to visit in this region as St. Simon was an important Saint during the period of Christianity. Avanos is a lively town with a shopping centre on one side and a beautiful maze of old stone houses on the other, some restored and some simply abandoned by fate. The Kizilirmak or the Red River separates Avanos from the rest of Cappadocia and is supposedly the longest river in Turkey. It is from this river that you find the red pottery clay in the region. In some of the houses at Avanos you can also find the murals and motifs of the Ottoman era.
Pottery has been produced in the Avanos area for several centuries and some of the techniques still used date back to Hittite times. Avanos is a mass of family run potteries, most of which are only too pleased to let visitors have a go on the potters wheel and give them a full history of the many and various pottery goods on offer. Avanos pots make wonderful souvenirs and are available at a wide range of prices, from simple ashtrays and mugs to ornate plates and chess sets. It is quite common to find these souvenirs and also a few handicraft shops in this region.
We visited the workshop of Chez Galip which is one of the most popular pottery workshops of the region making pottery for over six generations. Known as Çeç Pottery, it has the most amazing collection of pottery that you will find in this region. Not only they demonstrate how pottery is made but also you can try your hand at this wonderful art of pottery making which on the face of it looks very simple but requires a lot of finesse and artistry to go along with your creativity. After admiring some fine ceramic work, our next halt was at Göreme-an open air museum and one of the most important centres of Christianity. Göreme is 15 km east of Nevsehir and 5 km west of Ürgüp. In Göreme, you will find over 600 churches which are carved by rock formations. It is difficult to say when the Christians came here, but it is believed that it was after St. Paul which was around 2nd century. After that period, the Christian population in this region increased and continued to do so during the 3rd and 4th Century. In the 4th Century, there were three saints from Anatolia who came here to set up the principles of Christianity.
Göreme has a friendly and relaxed atmosphere but there is café society and nightlife in the centre of the village for those who fancy something more lively. There is plenty to see in Göreme itself and is a useful base to explore the region of Cappadocia.
However, the main attraction of the region is the great concentration of rock-cut chapels and monastries. Many of the churches here feature Byzantine frescoes which depicts various scenes from the life of Christ. Several caves have been restored in this area and some of churches amongst many are the Barbara Church, the Tokali Church and the Yilanli Church. You can also do a camel ride around the region and also climb up to the Kizlar Monastery.
Most of the frescoes in the churches have been damaged over the years but the beauty of the churches and their decoration is still apparent on visiting Göreme. The best preserved frescoes are in the Dark Church or Kranlik Kilise and there is an add-on fee to visit these paintings which have been restored. A visit is highly recommended for those who appreciate fine fresco paintings. We also visited the Apple Church and the Snake Church.
The Apple Church is one of the smaller churches in the area, carved in the sign of a Greek cross with four irregular pillars supporting a central dome. The church was restored in the early 1990s, but the frescoes continue to chip off, revealing a layer of earlier paintings underneath. Paintings depict scenes of the saints, bishops, and martyrs, and to the right of the altar, a Last Supper with the symbolic fish (the letters of the word fish in Greek stand for "Jesus Christ, Son of God, the Saviour"). The name of the church is believed to refer to a reddish orb in the left hand of the Archangel Michael in the dome of the main apse, although there's also speculation that there used to be an apple tree at the entrance to the church and hence it got the name of the Apple Church
The Snake Church is a simple barrel-vaulted church with a low ceiling and long nave. One fresco represents Saints Theodore and George slaying the dragon (looking suspiciously like a snake), with Emperor Constantine the Great and his mother Helena depicted holding the "True Cross." Legend has it that she discovered the cross upon which Jesus was crucified after seeing it in a dream, and that a piece of the cross is still buried in the foundations of the Ayasofya in Istanbul.
After having spent a couple of hours at Göreme, it was time to head back to Ürgüp The following day I took the flight from Kayseri to Izmir for the last leg of my journey to Turkey where I would be visiting the exciting region of the Aegean Sea starting with Kusadasi and then moving on to Ephesus and also to Hierapolis and Pammukale which also is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site.


KUSADASI & THE AEGEAN EXPERIENCE

The Aegean shores undoubtedly boasts of the loveliest landscapes in the country - from coastlines with crystal clear water to pristine beaches and some amazing historic sites. I was looking forward to the last leg of my trip to Turkey. On arrival at Izmir airport, I was quite excited to head to Kusadasi which is a famous port of call for luxury cruise liners, besides well known for its beaches, restaurants and night life as well. Kusadasi which means "Bird Island" derives it name from an islet known as Pigeon Island. Located around 90 minutes on the south of Izmir, you can also visit Greece as the island of Samos which is just 30 minutes by boat from Kusadasi.
There are several day trips which are organized from Kusadasi into Greece and it is important that you have a visa for Greece as well as a multiple entry visa for Turkey in case you plan taking the day cruise to Samos Island. Kusadasi has grown to be a popular tourist destination as it is close to many important sites across the Aegean region such as Pammukale which is 3 hours away, Bodrum - the party capital of Turkey which is 2 hours from Kusadasi and Ephesus or Efes which is one of the most popular sites and well known for the best preserved ancient ruins in the world. Ephesus is near Selçuk which is a mere 30 minutes away from Kusadasi.
En route from Izmir to Kusadasi you will also find two Aqua Parks - Aqua Fantasy and Adaland. On the coach I had a couple - the man was from Scotland and the lady from New Zealand and the lady was making her 18th trip to Turkey as she has been visiting Turkey almost every year when she set her foot first on this country nearly 20 years ago and they were to spend a week chilling out at Aqua Fantasy which is one of the biggest water parks in the world. I could gauge the size of the park as you could see some of the gigantic water slides as the coach halted at the park for the passengers to alight at Aqua Fantasy. One can stay at the Aqua Fantasy Club Hotel, a four star resort property which has its own private beach and is just 4 kilometres from Kusadasi.
Alternatively you can stay in Kusadasi and make a day trip to any of the waterparks. The other water park en route is Adaland which is the biggest Aquapark in Europe and comprises of a wide range of activities with over 20 fantastic rides spread around 67 acres.
After having crossed the Aqua parks we were approaching the scenic town of Kusadasi with it crystal clear waters. I checked in at the Kayhanbey Hotel, a four star property which is located along the harbour and I could see one of the cruise liners which was docked from the balcony of my hotel room. The hotel comprises of 72 rooms and is in the heart of the city centre and an ideal place to stay. You have quite a few restaurants in the vicinity and as it was nearing lunch time, I stopped for lunch at King's Palace which is a café restaurant and serves a wide variety of cuisine ranging from Turkish, Italian, Indian and Mexican. So for the Indian travellers who are particular either for vegetarian or Indian meals you would love Kusadasi as it offers lots of options as far as cuisine is concerned.
Later that afternoon, I explored the city centre starting with the port area which has all the leading shopping brands at great value. The city of Kusadasi to a great extent reminded me of Phuket, Thailand as it is having not only beautiful beaches, but a town bustling with activity and is a delightful place to be in whether you are going on a honeymoon or a family holiday or even if you are a party animal. The town itself boasts of some lovely beaches and enjoys 300 days of sunshine a year - a typical Mediterranean climate with long summers and mild winters. One of the popular beach is known as the Ladies Beach or Kadinlar Denizi and is located around 5 kilometres from the city centre. No motor vehicle is allowed in the ladies beach area and there is a regular shuttle which runs from the town centre to the ladies beach. You can also experience various water sports activities here - whether it is windsurfing, water skiing, sailing or beach volleyball, Kusadasi is one of the popular destinations to relax by the beach side and at the same time visit some of the historic sites around the region. What better way to spend your evening after a day of activity than try out a Turkish Hamam or the famous Turkish Bath.
That evening, I went to Adasaray Hamami which is a few kilometers away from the town to try out the Turkish Bath as Kusadasi is one of the best places to try the traditional Turkish bath experience. The tradition of Turkish bath dates back to the time even before the Turks had reached Anatolia. When the Turks arrived in Anatolia, they brought with them a bathing tradition and were confronted with the bathing tradition of the Romans and Byzantines and soon the traditions of bathing merged and with the addition of the Moslem concern for cleanliness; there arose a new concept of bathing known as the Hamam or the Turkish bath. Soon the popularity of Hamam grew and besides become a place to cleanse the skin, it became a ritual for the locals to frequent the Hamam and today it has become one of the major attractions for those who visit Turkey. So what exactly is the Hamam experience - You first enter a chamber what is called a dream room to leave your clothes and wrap yourself with a towel and then you can go to the sauna room for 15 to 20 minutes. Thereafter, you go the the main bathing area where there is a centralized platform also known as the main parlour area.
The Turkish Bath or Gobek Tasi in Turkish which is translated as belly stone in English is where you lie down for about 10 to 15 minutes and a professional masseur will use loofas to cleanse your skin in order to open the pores of your skin along with foamy layers of soap. After that you have a choice of either taking a typical Turkish massage followed by shower or skip the massage and immediately after the bath leave the main room and go to the lounge area wrapped around in your bathing robe and enjoy a warm drink which is preferably the traditional Turkish tea. The entire experience is extremely rejuvenating and those who haven't tried a Turkish bath, I would strongly recommend them to do so when in Turkey and preferably in Kusadasi especially after having spent a long day at the beach side soaking in the sun and trying out some active water sports along the beach. There are separate bathing areas for men and women and the best way to know how you feel is to experience it.
Later that evening, I headed to the city centre where one finds shops open late in the evening and at times till the wee hours of the morning. It is in the evening that the city comes to life and the restaurants serve some of the local Aegean speciality including fresh seafood. You can then burn your calories dancing away at any of the bars or discotheques which are open till the early hours of dawn. The following morning, I joined the tour to Efes or Ephesus which is one of the best preserved ancient city on the Eastern side of the Mediterranean. The day long tour comprised of visiting the ruins as well as the House of Virgin Mary where it is believed that Virgin Mary spent her last few years here at the Bulbul Mountains, Selçuk which is a few kilometers away from Ephesus.
Ephesus was our first stop and here you find several acres of carefully excavated ruins which present an unparalleled recreation of ancient splendour. Ephesus once had over 250000 inhabitants and to appreciate the magnificent ruins you need one entire day. There are some fine sites which stand out in the city of Ephesus and this includes the Celsus Library and the Grand Roman amphitheatre where till date you have concerts being performed during the annual Efes festival. The city of Ephesus itself was founded around 3000 BC by the Amazons and it was around 1000 BC that it became a Greek Colony. The foundation of Ephesus was initiated by Androclos, son of Kodros (King of Athens). Androcolos and his companions established the new city and lived here for 44 years. The city became famous for its science, technology and wealth and its popularity spread in the surrounding area extending to the famous Temple of Artemis, one of the seven wonders of the ancient world.
Alexander the Great entered Ephesus in 334 BC and this period was known as the Golden Age of Ephesus. After Alexander's death, the city was ruled by one of his Generals and later in 130 BC, the city was annexed to the Roman Empire under the reign of Emperor Augustus and most of the remains seen today belong to the Roman Empire. Only 30% of the city has been excavated and as we were soaking in the history narrated to us by our guide, we could see some of the areas which were cordoned off as the excavation of the city continues to take place. The excavation of this city was started around 130 years ago.
As one enters the city of Ephesus, the first place we come across is the Agora or the Market place. Then there is the smaller amphitheatre known as Odeon which was used for concerts, later we moved on to the site of the Celsus Library which is one of the well preserved monuments of the city. The façade is two-storeyed and its interior consists of a single large hall. There are four pairs of columns and between them there are three entrance doors and between the doors there are four female statues which symbolizes virtue, knowledge, destiny and intelligence. The statues here in Ephesus are copies as the originals were taken to Austria. Across the library used to be a brothel of which there is very little remains today. Only two of the floors covering mosaics symbolizing the four seasons are in a well preserved condition. It was said that the people used to leave their homes with the excuse of going to the library and they would instead go across to the brothel.
Moving further down the Celsus Library there is a Triumphal Arch in Greek Roman Style which is the south east gate of the Commercial Agora or Market place and is supposed to have been built in the 4th or 3rd Century BC. To the north of the Agora is the Harbour Gate and the road alongside the Agora is known as the Marble Road as during the 5th Century it was believed to have been paved with white marble slabs and you find the remains of the road even today. The road leads to the Grand Theatre which is the most impressive structure of Ephesus and has a seating capacity of 24000 spectators. It was also the most important meeting place in the social and cultural life of the city. The original theatre was built during the Hellenistic age and was enlarged during 41-54 A.D. The theatre was used as a meeting place for ordinary citizens to discuss important matters involving the city. During the Roman Age, it also became a venue for gladiator fights involving wild animals. The renovated Grand Theatre of Ephesus is being used recently especially during the annual Efes Festival to stage various theatrical performances.
The other highlights of Ephesus include the Trajan Fountain, Memmius Monument, Hadrian Temple, Houses of the Slopes, Hercules Gate, Domitian Temple and the Pollio Fountain. After the city of Ephesus, we stopped next at the location of the Artemis Temple which was one of the wonders of the ancient world. The foundation stone of the temple was laid around 7th Century BC. It was built in honor of the Greek goddess of hunting, wild nature, and fertility and was in fact the most beautiful structure on earth and therefore included amongst the seven wonders of the ancient world. Referred to as the great marble temple, or temple D, it was sponsored by the Lydian king Croesus and was designed by the Greek architect Chersiphron. The temple served as both a marketplace and a religious institution. For years, the sanctuary was visited by merchants, tourists, artisans, and kings who paid homage to the goddess by sharing their profits with her. Recent archeological excavations at the site revealed gifts from pilgrims including statuettes of Artemis made of gold and ivory, ornaments comprising of earrings, bracelets, and necklaces as well as artifacts from Persia as well as India. On the night of 21 July 356 BC, a man named Herostratus burned the temple to ground in an attempt to immortalize his name.
On the same night itself, Alexander the Great was born. Later, when Alexander the Great conquered Asia Minor, he offered to rebuild the destroyed temple, but the Temple was not restored until after his death in 323 BC. The temple was eventually restored and was labeled "Temple E" by archeologists. The temple was again destroyed by the Goths in AD 262. Although the Ephesians vowed to rebuild. by the fourth century AD, most Ephesians had converted to Christianity and the temple lost its religious glamour. The final chapter came when in AD 401 the Temple of Artemis was torn down by St John Chrysostom. Ephesus was later deserted, and only in the late nineteenth century has the site been excavated. The digging revealed the temple's foundation and the road to the now swampy site. Attempts were recently made to rebuilt the temple, but only a few columns have been re-erected.

Our next stop after the Artemis Temple was Meryama OR House of Virgin Mary where Virgin Mary had spent the last years of her life in the the Ephesus area. It is known that crucified Jesus has asked St John the Evangelist to look after his mother Mary and it was John who brought Mary to Ephesus around 37 AD where she spent the last few years of her life at the place known as Meryama which is 8 kilometres from Ephesus. The shrine is located at Mount Pion or Bulbul Mountain where it is believed that Mary lived until the age of 64 and died around 46 AD. This place was declared a place of pilgrimage around 1892 by the Archbishop of Izmir after the house was discovered in 1812 by a German nun - Sister Emmerich, who had never moved from her home as she was an invalid. However, one day she awoke in a trance and described Mary's house in detail which was recorded by a writer named Brentano, who was at her bedside. The German nun went on to say that the Virgin Mary died at the age of 64 and was buried in a cave near her house. When her coffin was opened soon after, however, the coffin and burial shroud were empty. The house was then turned into a chapel. Years after Emmerich's vision, a French clergyman read Brentano's account and later travelled to Ephesus to find the House of the Virgin where he found a house matching the nun's description and sent word to the bishops of Paris and Rome who did not respond to his observation.
Later in 1891, two Lazarist preists and two Catholic officials set out to Ephesus to see the house. They found a small chapel in ruins with a damaged statue of the Virgin. They returned to Izmir with their report, and more priests and specialists were sent out to the site. Since 1892 the House of the Virgin has been an official Catholic pilgrimage site. It was restored by 1897 and a shelter for visitors was set up. The Meryama was later visited by Popes Paul VI and John Paul II, who verified its authenticity. On August 15 (the Feast of the Assumption of Mary) each year, Orthodox and Muslim clergy conduct a service together at the shrine which is indeed rare in any part of the world. The House of the Virgin is a sacred site for both Christians and Muslims (Muslims also believe in the virgin birth and honour Mary as the mother of the Prophet Jesus). The spring that runs under the Virgin's House is believed to have healing properties, and many miracles have been reported. Inside the house are crutches and canes said to be left behind by those who were healed by the sacred spring.
The house itself is a one-domed building and at the entrance, there is a small front hall and at the back is an elongated chamber with an altar, which is a prayer room. This place of pilgrimage is visited by thousands of tourists each year and people believing in godly qualities of Virgin Mary come here and drink from the spring water believed to be sacred and make their wishes. Very recently in November 2006, Pope Benedict XVI celebrated a mass at the House of Virgin Mary and was the third Pope to visit this holy place of pilgrimage. Along the shrine there is a prayer wall where you have hundreds of pieces of cloth hanged up with wishes from pilgrims who frequent the place every year.
After spending some time at the holy place and experiencing the mystic beauty we headed back to Kusadasi. The next day was a day long tour to the region of Heirapolis and the cotton terraces of Pamukkale - one of the spectacular places worth visiting during your stay in Turkey. As you drive around the Aegean coast from Kusadasi, you turn inland towards Denizli to reach Pamukkale also know as the Cotton Castle. It takes about 3 hours from Kusadasi to reach the UNESCO town of Heirapolis-Pamukkale. Here, thermal spring waters laden with calcium run off the plateau's edge, creating a cascade of petrified basins - an extraordinary work of art created by nature. The ancient city of Heirapolis is located around 19 kilometres north of Denizli and is at an altitude of 100 metres above the Meander excavations. During the Hellenistic era, the thermal springs at Heirapolis made it a very popular spa and today the ruins of Heirapolis has many visitors not only for its history but also to swim in its mineral rich pools and see the terraces of Pamukkale.
The ancient city of Hierapolis itself was known as the Holy City in archeological literature because of the abundance of temples and various other religious structures in the area. The city was founded by Eumenes II, King of Pergamum and it was an importance centre during the Roman and Byzantine periods and a centre of Christianity since the 4th Century. It derives its name from Heira which means sacred city because of the religious events that took place here. There is a large cemetery area in this region and therefore it is also known as the Necropolis or the city of the dead. People used to come here to soothe their healings in the hot spa which were in existence here since 2nd Century BC and many of them retired and died here. The great baths were constructed with huge stone blocks without the use of plaster, and consisted of various closed or open sections linked together. There are deep niches in the inner section of the bath, library, gymnasium and other closed or open locations. The complex, constitutes a good example of vault-type architecture. The complex is now an Archaeological Museum.
The city of Heirapolis has statues and shops around, underneath which passed canals. The road had a base covered with stone blocks with two huge doors which were constructed at the end of the 1st Century and left outside the city walls. The Byzantine Gate was later constructed in the 6th Century. In the year 17 A.D. an earthquake destroyed the city, which was rebuilt. In the year 1534, another earthquake destroyed the remains of the ancient city. After the formation of the large white limestone, the hot springs became famous in the 20th century as the tourist attraction, known as Pamukkale. The city of Hierapolis along with Pamukkale was included in the UNESCO World Heritage Sites in 1988. The ancient city was rediscovered, but also partially destroyed by hotels that were built there. These buildings were removed again in recent years. The hot water pool of one hotel was retained, and, for a fee, it is possible to swim amongst ancient stone remains.
Pamukkale is one of Turkey's most popular and photographed sights and the terraces form when the water from the hot springs loses it carbon dioxide as it flows down the slopes which in turn leaves deposits of limestone, creating layers of white calcium carbonate formation. These formations are built up in steps on the plateau and that is probably how it has earned its name Pamukkale or cotton castle. The ancient city of Heirapolis was built on top of the white "castle" which is about 2700 meters long and 160m high. As you drive into the region, you can see the white terraces from a distance, as you drive uphill into Heirapolis. The region enjoys a temperate climate all year round.
The spring water which fill into these white terraces are at 350oC and forms an extraordinary phenomenon with their travertine deposits of calcium carbonate. The waters here are believed to have been used by Emperors who came here for various treatments such as cardiovascular disorders, blood pressure anamolies, skin eruptions as well as disorders of the digestive system. In fact the Turkish people call Pamukkale the 8th wonder of the world for its amazing beauty and fantastic formations of stalactities and basins. One of the popular stops is a swim at the Cleopatra Pool which is supposed to have strong healing powers as it is littered with fragments of marble columns which are associated with the Temple of Apollo. It costs about 10 Euros to bathe in the pool as this is the only place where bathing is allowed as it is forbidden to bathe in the cotton terraces.
However, at Pamukkale who find a lot of tourists coming in their swim suits to soak in the sun and dip their feet in the water of the white terraces, which has rich calcium deposits. Ideally, it is worth to stay one night in Pamukkale and Heirapolis to explore the region extensively. However, due to paucity of time, I had to head back to Kusadasi the same evening after completing the last leg of my tour to Turkey. The following day, I flew from Izmir into Istanbul and thereafter to take my connecting flight to Mumbai, after having visited one of the most fascinating countries, which has a unique influence of two continents - Asia and Europe. For those who are still planning a holiday this April or May, Turkey is a must visit destination, as you can stay at a cave hotel in Cappadocia, admire the natural beauty of the amazing cotton castle at Pamukkale or experience rich history and cruise along the Bosphorus in Istanbul, the only city in the world which is located in two continents and with direct flights from Mumbai to Istanbul, on Turkish Airlines, there is no reason why you should not be visiting this wonderful country. Compact Travels has some very unique itineraries to make your visit to Turkey one of your most memorable holiday experiences.

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