Friday, August 8, 2008

SAXONY - The Hidden Treasure of Germany

DRESDEN & WACKERBATH CASTLE

Germany is a land of many gems and Saxony is undoubtedly the hidden treasure of Germany. I was convinced about the same after having attended a presentation by Shireesh Sharma , Marketing Consultant for Saxony Tourism for the Americas. In fact, I would add that no other Indian knows Saxony better than Shireesh and this was further reiterated when I attended his presentation earlier this year at the ASTA IDE in Lyon.

Last September, I had the opportunity to visit Germany’s No. 1 Cultural Destination and on arrival at Berlin airport we were greeted by our host Wolfgang Gärtner- Head of International Marketing, Tourism Marketing Company of Saxony and we boarded our coach to head to the South East corner and the capital of Saxony, Dresden. Dresden is located to the south of Berlin and it takes under 2 hours to cover the distance of 165 kilometres on the Autobahn between the two cities. You can even fly to Dresden on Austrian via Vienna as they offer convenient connection to the capital city of Saxony

Saxony, the art and cultural capital of Germany is on the South East corner of Germany and borders the Czech Republic and Poland. We were to spend 4 days to get a flavour of this wonderful area of Germany comprising of 7 regions.

Our first halt en route was at Pillnitz Castle Gardens. Pillnitz used to be the summer residence of the Saxon Kings near Dresden. The park and the castle were built here at the end of the 18th Century. This used to be the summer residence of the Saxon Kings and the Riverside Palace was linked to the New Palace and the Hillside Palace to form a unique ensemble of architecture. The English and Chinese pavilions were added later. We had the opportunity to take a short stroll for about 15 minutes to get an impression of this wonderful area which has been part of the Dresden Elbe Valley UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2004. Before Dresden became a centre of research, industry and tourism, it was the seat of the royal residence and being royalties they had castles. Pillnitz was built in a Japanese style and was the closest castle to Dresden with the exception of the city castle. The city castle used to be the winter residence of the royalties. Originally there was a Renaissance Castle in Pillnitz and later the castle was in the possession of Countess Cosel, the most famous mistress of Augustus the Strong. She started redoing the castle in Baroque style with the help of famous architect Matthäus Daniel Pöpellmann who was also responsible for rebuilding Dresden after the fire of 1685. He also built a water pavilion from where you can take gondolas and go along the Elbe River. He also built the Hill Palace which was later connected to the Castle. The architecture here is chinoiserie or Chinese style, probably due to the influence of Marco Polo who three centuries earlier had discovered China and you can see the Chinese impressions in the architecture at Pillnitz. The site consists of an English garden which is used for concerts and cultural events today, as well as a Chinese Garden, a Chinese pavilion and an Orangerie. You can arrive at the Pillnitz gardens and Castle in one of the Elbe Steamboats as well.

After a quick lunch at the restaurant within the garden premises, we took a steam boat ride to the capital of Saxony also known as the Florence on the Elbe – Dresden.

Dresden was one of Europe’s most beautiful cities until 1945 when the Allied bombers turned this city into a pile of rubble. The city which celebrated its 800th anniversary in 2006 is probably much older city as the first settlements who came to Dresden came from the East of Europe from Russia, Poland, Czech and settled on the banks of the river Elbe and they used to speak Slavic language. The name Dresden is derived from the old Serbian word Drježdźany which the Slavic settlers here used to speak. This word stood for “inhabitants on a swampy ground” and over the years this place grew from its obscurity to what it is today, probably the richest in Germany in terms of art, culture, history, architecture, music, shopping, gold, wine and fine gastronomy. Today the city has 510000 inhabitants in an area of 18413 sq.kilometres.

The most inspiring Saxon was Augustus the Strong and you can find his statue as you arrive into Dresden from the Elbe river. After World War II, Dresden was completely destroyed and this was followed by Communist rule before being reunited with Germany.

We took a brief historic walking tour of this beautiful city comprising of many historical monuments such as the reconstructed Frauenkirche or the Church of our Lady which is the largest Protestant Church in Germany. The Frauenkirche which miraculously survived the bombings and subsequent fires thereafter, suddenly collapsed a few days later as the building’s standstone had started to cool down. It was rebuilt as a symbol of reconciliation between former enemies of war. This Lutheran Church, which was built between 1726 and 1743 took 13 years to rebuild and was eventually completed in 2005. It is undoubtedly one of the most famous icons of Dresden. The Church used to also host several musical concerts as it was famous for its acoustics. Richard Wagner did a presentation with 1100 singers here. The cost to rebuild the church was $200 million and most money came by donation and most of the work was voluntary.

As you walk near the theatre square, you see the imposing Semperoper or the Semper Opera House, a later Baroque building in Germany and one of the world’s best opera house where our Zubin Mehta has also performed on several occasions.

The Dresden Zwinger is yet another famous landmark comprising of pavilions and galleries in baroque style and was commissioned by Augustus the Strong, the elector of Saxony. Zwinger which means interspace originates from its location between former city fortifications. The most impressive pavilions are the Rampart and Glockenspiel. The Zwinger with its large inner courtyard was used for court festivities, tournaments and fireworks and today, houses several museums such as the Porcelain Museum, the Old Master’s Gallery and the Historical Museum. One of the highlights of the Zwinger is the Crown Gate – a baroque gate topped by a large crown and the Nymphenbad – a small enclosed courtyard near the Rampart pavilion which has a baroque fountain featuring numerous statues.

Another interesting area of the city centre is Neumarkt. Neumarkt which stands for New Market should be taken to be misunderstood as a market place. Here in Germany, it is the name of the square and is a culturally significant section of the inner city of Dresden. The Neumarkt like most of Dresden was destroyed during WW II and was rebuilt to its original pre-war look.

Amongst the other Baroque masterpieces in Dresden are the Taschenberg Palace and the Dresden Cathedral. Later in the day we had the opportunity to visit the Green Vault- Europe’s most important treasury museum. The original “Green Vault” too was destroyed during WWII and later rebuilt by Augustus the Strong and here you can find the most important pieces of art including the “Court of Aurangzeb”- a masterpiece of the Dinglinger family of Jewellers. This amazing work took as long as 7 years to build one costs as much as the famous Moritzburg Castle of Saxony.

Dresden is a city for lovers of art and is home to several museums. With a standard ticket costing 12 Euros, you can have access to as many as 11 different museums on a single day which include the Green Vault (extra charges for Historic Green Vault), Numismatic Collection, Porcelain Collection, Armoury Museum, Museum of Arts and Crafts, Sculpture Collection, to name a few.

After getting a preview of what was in store for us during our stay, we checked in at the Steigenberger Park Hotel in Radebeul, situated on the foot of the Loessnitz vineyards, seven kilometers away from the city of Dresden. Radebeul is an ideal location for trips to Moritzburg Castle, the porcelain city of Meissen and Saxon Switzerland – one of the most unique landscapes in Germany. It is also on the Saxon Wine Route which runs from Pirna, located to the south of Dresden and runs upto Diessbar-Seusslitz, a village to the north of Meissen. Nearby we had the opportunity to visit one of the most amazing vineyards of Saxony – the Schloss Wackerbarth or the Wackerbarth Castle.

The Wackerbarth Castle, nestled in the town of Radebeul houses Saxony’s oldest sparkling wine(Sekt) producing facility. It is Europe’s first vineyard to allow guest to discover and experience the world of wine first-hand. We arrived at Wackerbath Castle late in the evening where the Mediterranean style palace stood out at twilight and we could smell the fruitiness of the Riesling grown in the area. We were taken for a guided tour of the state-owned winery and got to experience a bouquet of wines from black currant to exotic peach aromas before being treated to some fine gourmet meals prepared by their head chef providing the perfect culmination to our visit to the Wackerbath Castle which has attracted connoisseurs and lovers of the Mediterranean way of life since the 18th Century. The special menu exclusively prepared for us comprised of gratinated goat’s cheese from Altenburg in a filo dough on fig curry jam and reduced grape’s vinegar accompanied by 2006 Riesling Qba semi-dry. This was followed by the main course comprising of breast of Moritzburger pheasant a la vinter on pineapple cabbage and herbal couscous accompanied by a 2006 Frühburgunder Qba dry and concluded by a dessert comprising of Borthner apple soup with iced sour cream accompanied with a 2003 Weissburgunder Auslese. The sumptuous meal accompanied by the finest wines convinced me that Saxony is undoubtedly the gastronomic capital of Germany.

Those who love Indian food needn’t despair for there is Kamasutra! Don’t get me wrong as Kamasutra is one amongst several Indian restaurants that you can find in Dresden which serve Indian cuisine and claims to be the first in continental Europe to offer authentic Indian food. There is also Maharadscha, another Indian restaurant, which claims to be the first Indian restaurant in Dresden. So I wonder who was first. The important thing here is that there are several Indian restaurants in Dresden amongst cuisines from across the world.

There were lots of exciting places in store for us to visit in Saxony. Next on our list of destinations was a visit to.....


SAXON SWITZERLAND, GÖRLITZ & BAUTZEN


After a sumptuous breakfast, our coach left southwards to the region of Saxon Switzerland. Saxon Switzerland which is on the border of the Czech Republic is one of the most unique landscapes in Germany and lies to the south of Dresden.


It was named Saxon Switzerland as there was a Swiss painter Adrian Zingg who came at the end of the 19th Century. He worked in Dresden and he came here and it reminded him of his native land in Switzerland and so he named it as Saxon Switzerland. The people in the administration didn’t like this as they preferred it to be known as the Elbe Sandstone Mountains, which was the original name. However the people liked it and the name got stuck and the national park too is known as the Saxon Switzerland national park. This was only the beginning of several places in Germany being named as Switzerland, there are as many as 120 Switzerlands within Germany although most of them are smaller areas. This place is an all time favourite amongst painters, hikers and lovers of nature. As you arrive here, there is a Panorama restaurant and the Berghotel Bastei. On a sunny day, you can sit out in the Biergarten and also get a view of the stunning scenery of the region.


Saxon Switzerland is one of the favourite holiday destinations of not only the people of Germany but all those who visit the region of Saxony as well as the Czech Republic. It is possible to do a day trip here or stay in Saxon Switzerland and do the neighbouring Ore Mountains as well. There was an ocean here millions of years ago and later the oceans evolved into the romantic scenery that you find here at the Elbe Sandstone Mountains.

Although we were greeted with wet weather, we were simply overawed by the unparalleled nature on display comprising of forests, mountains and gorges in the midst of a green landscape. The beauty of wild flower meadows and the Bastei (Bastion) rock formation provides stunning sceneries of deep ravines, bizarre rock towers and huge table rocks which have been created on the grounds of a former ocean. Truly, photographers and painters can spend days capturing various dimensions of natural beauty of this region.

Located 30 kilometres from Dresden, Saxon Switzerland lies between the Ore Mountains and the Lusatia Mountains extending from the town of Pirna and across the Czech Repubic border to the town of Decin in Bohemia. The German part of the mountains covers a region of 368 kilometres of stunning landscape and this region was created when the rivers flowing from the peaks of the Ore Mountains deposited sediments and seashells as the water flowed to the sea, almost 66 million years ago. The land was formed by erosion of water and wind which gives the distinctive features of sandstone blocks, valleys and vertical walls descending in several steps and broken up into rock towers. The Czech Republic side of the mountains is known as Bohemian Switzerland. The place has over 1100 climbing peaks and is a haven for international climbers from across the globe. The region originally had the Slavic settlers and is believed to have had a number of fortresses around to protect the trade routes. Even today you find the Königstein Fortress and the Hohnstein Castle. There are hardly any remains of the other castles and fortresses except the Bastei or the castle on the Falkenstein, which today is a climbing peak.

This region is the origin of free climbing, with ropes and bolts being used for protection but never meant for climbing. The region comprises of over 1200 kilometres of hiking trails and 14000 climibing routes thru which mountain climbers can conquer over a thousand free standing peaks. There is also the Elbe cycle path or you can board a steam paddle boat along the Elbe river to discover the beauty of the region. This region was made a national park only during the last days of East Germany, rather before the German reunification. It in incredible to note that the famous Frauenkirche (Church of our Lady) as well as the Zwinger in Dresden were built with the famous sandstone from the Elbe Valley. Even the historic Brandenburg Gate in Berlin was built from the sandstone that you find here in Saxon Switzerland. It is here that Germany’s first ever landscape photographs were captured way back in 1853 near the Bastei rock formation. The famous Bastei Bridge too was built around the 1850s and later reconstructed out of wood due to increase in the number of tourists and we had the opportunity to cross the Bastei Bridge – the first building in Europe that was intended only as a tourist attraction.

For nature lovers it is strongly recommended to have an overnight stay at one of the 3 wellness hotels in this region- Berghotel Bastei, the Park Hotel or the Lindenhof Hotel. There are a variety of wellness packages available in some of these properties. A good option would be to stay in Saxon Switzerland where a double room would cost 50 Euros per night for a 4 star accommodation and then do a day trip to Dresden which is one hour away and during peak seasons accommodation in Dresden can be 3 to 6 times more expensive than the tariffs you find in Saxon Switzerland.

After a halt for about an hour at Saxon Switzerland we headed to the region of Upper Lusatia which lies to the east of Dresden; en route we halted for lunch at the Rammenau Castle. The building which is a museum today comprises of a treasure chest of late Baroque and early Classicist interior architecture and has various rooms of diverse styles including a Chinese Room, a Birds Room, a Bulgarian Room and a Hunting Room. The Mirror is mainly used for concerts and the international Linen Festival of Upper Lusatia takes place here every August. The Neo-classic interior design with its valuable porcelain, stylish salons and illusionist wall painting along with the grand staircase are some of the highlights of this wonderful baroque castle.

Our next stop was at the easternmost city of Germany – Görlitz which has a Silesian influence and is located on the Polish order comprises of 35000 inhabitants. It is 1 hour 15 minutes from Dresden and can be reached either by road or by rail. If you arrive by train, you will be impressed by the art nouveau styled train station. Görlitz is the centre of Lower Silesia’s Upper Lusatia region and is one of the most interesting towns in Saxony. Upper Lusatia has changed hands very often – it was Hungarian, Bohemian, Austrian, partly Prussian and most of the time Saxony. After World War II, the borders were changed, the eastern part of Upper Lusatia became Poland, the western part in German territory was part of East Germany and Görlitz was part of it. Hence, you find a Silesian influence here in Görlitz. Lots of people here are from Silesia, which is part of Poland. The history of the town has a strong influence of the Sorbs and till date they are able to preserve their culture and later in the day we were going for a Sorbian evening at the Bjesada restaurant in Bautzen. Görlitz, is one of the few places where the synagogues survived the war and the city has a great influence of various religions. We did a short walking tour of Görlitz although we didn’t have time to visit the Holy Grave – a true to life replica of the grave of Jesus that you find in the holy city of Jerusalem.

Very few towns possess an unspoilt old town as Görlitz which boasts of over 4000 architectural monuments dating from different eras and due to the Via Regia- the city on the banks of the River Neisse was part of the old trading town between various regions of Bohemia and Silesia. Having escaped destruction during WWII, Görlitz looks pretty much the same as it was in 1945, and hence is one of the most beautiful towns in Germany. From Renaissance to Art Nouveau, the town is a feast for lovers of architecture. Large parts of the old town have been restored to its former glory and after WWII, the town of Görlitz has been divided with a large part of it in Germany and a smaller portion of it in Poland which is known as Zgorzelec. The major highlights of the city tour include the City Hall Steps which date back to the 16th Century, the Oberlausitz Library of Science – one of the most beautiful European Library, the Church of St. Peter and Paul, a late-gothic hall church and the Church of Holy Trinity.




Our brief halt at Görlitz included a visit to the Strasbourg arcade, a shopping arcade which was built by a Jewish merchant. Jews normally have German names and very often they use names of places from where they originally came from. Probably, in this case that is why it is known as Strasbourg arcade as the person who built it might have originally come from Strasbourg. Interestingly the spires of St Peter’s Church in Görlitz and other areas of the town as well is where the movie Around the World in 80 days starring Jackie Chan was shot, although in the movie certain clips are show as the Notre Dame of Paris, although shot in Görlitz.


Our next halt was at the medieval looking town of many towers, Bautzen which lies approximately 54 kilometres west of Görlitz. As we approached Bautzen, the city was visible from a distance as it has a city comprising of many towers. What is unique about the town is its picturesque location and the upper town is situated on a granite plateau above the Spree River. Bautzen is a historical town and a former capital of Upper Lusatia. The town is situated close to the north border of the Czech Republic in German Saxony. The Spree river runs across the town and creates many amazing curves cut into a narrow valley. Close to the river are remains of middle age walls with many towers bastion.

The Alte Wasserkunst or Old Waterworks is the place from where you can watch the river in the valley as well as view water facilities partially cut into a rock. The remains of the Ortenburg castle are situated close to the tower. A natural centre of the town is the square with its historical buildings of Peter’s Palace and an old Town Hall. Quite specific is the town tower called Reichenturm or the leaning tower of Bautzen. This "leaning tower" dated from 1490 and is 1,44 m off its axis. The tower is accessible for the public and during a strong wind visitors can feel the movements. Thanks to its great position and many sights the town attracts every year many foreign visitors. Close to Bautzen is the small town of Kleinwelk which offers a Dinosaurus stone park and an amazing labyrinth and "Miniature’s town".

Bautzen is also the centre of the Slavic minority of the Sorbs and the Sorbs have been able to sustain their own culture and language over centuries. We experience the Sorbian Culture and along with their tradition and customs over a Sorbian dinner at the Bjesada restaurant. The 1000 year old town continues to preserve the Slavic language and traditions which is reflected by the bilingual road signs in Bautzen. Traditions such as the artistic decoration of the Easter eggs, the Easter Riding or the “Witch Burning” have remained alive here through the centuries. After a traditional Sorbian dinner with a cultural event we took a short walk of the medieval town centre before heading back to Radebeul.

The next day we had yet another exciting tour of the city of Johann Sebastian Bach as well as a visit to the city where European porcelain was invented...




LEIPZIG & MEISSEN



The penultimate day in the region of Saxony we were to visit Leipzig, the city of music, also known as the city of Johann Sebastian Bach who lived and worked in Lieipzig for over 27 years and later was buried in St. Thomas' Church. On our schedule for the day, was also a visit to the city of “white gold” or European Porcelain- Meissen.

Leipzig is historical as it was the first town in Germany to win the right from the Emperor to hold a trade fair, way back in 1497 and it grew over the years to become a cosmopolitan and commercial city and is one of the most important cities of Germany. Leipzig lies to the north west of Dresden and can be reached by road or by train. With a population of over 560000 inhabitants, Leipzig is over 2 hours from Berlin, just an hour away by train and over 3 hours from Frankfurt on Main. It was the largest trading town and has a tradition as a trade fair city. The Leipzig Fair organized in the city is in fact the oldest trade fair in the world and at times is referred to as the “Mother of all Fairs” and was undoubtedly the most famous trade fair town of Germany until the Second World War (WWII). After the Second World War, and after the reunification, it was Frankfurt which gained prominence as the city for the Trade Fairs.

Leipzig has the biggest train station in Germany as it was a trade fair town. The train station has 26 platforms and about 140 shops and restaurants and it is one of the most beautiful and cleanest train stations in Germany. In fact the largest shopping mall is in the Leipzig Main Station which is the largest terminus in Europe and a visit to the railway station is a must as part of your visit to Leipzig.

Leipzig is a city known for its automobiles, industries and technology. The Porsche Cayenne is produced here and also the 3 Series of the BMW. Global players like DHL, Amazon, Siemens have their headquarters in Leipzig.

Leipzig is a city of music with well known names such as Bach, Mendelssohn and Wagner. Richard Wagner was born in Leipzig, Felix Mendelssohn Bartholdy led the Gewandhaus Orchestra to international fame and Robert Schumann, the famous composer and influential music critic studied in Leipzig University. Leipzig has the second oldest University after Heidelberg and over 50000 students come every year to study in Leipzig. Interestingly, the Berlin Wall came down because of Leipzig as it was in the walls of the St. Nicholas Church, there was a non-violent protest movement that took place in 1989 that led to the fall of the Berlin Wall and the reunification of Germany.

During our short visit to Leipzig, we did a walking tour of the city following the traces of some of the well known musicians, the churches of St. Thomas and St. Nicholas and the tomb of Bach. The Nikolaikirche, or the St. Nicholas Church is the oldest church in Leipzig, dating back to 1165 and refurbished in the 18th Century. The date of 9th October 1989 has a great significance as it was on this date and year that lead to the break down of the German Democratic Republic and reunification of Germany. The peaceful demonstration by over 70000 people took place after peaceful Monday demonstrations were held in this church. The ceiling and columns of the church are very impressive and the columns look like palm trees. Closeby we also had the opportunity to see the tomb of Johann Sebastian Bach.

In the past Leipzig was a small town and the major developments took place here only after the 20th Century. Leipzig is a city which is a delight for fans of classical museum as you have the Bach museum, Schumann's House and Mendelssohn's House which is unparalleled anywhere in the world.

For lovers of coffee, a visit to the Zum Arabischen Coffee Baum is a must, where you can have some coffee and then go upstairs to see the coffee museum. The Coffee Baum is one of the oldest coffee houses in Germany and amongst their guests were Wagner, Schumann and other famous personalities. There are fine cafes also along the Grimmaische Street where we were heading next for lunch to a very historical place - the Auerbachs Keller (or Auerbach’s Cellar in English), a remarkable restaurant in the most beautiful shopping arcade, the Mädler Passage. The restaurant was made immortal by Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, who was a student of Leipzig University, in his famous “Fausthus” novel where Mephisto rides on a wine barrel that is accessible to the visitors of the restaurant even today. The historical rooms in the Auerbachs Keller are illuminated by almost a 1000 light bulbs and approximately 75000 litres of beer are consumed in the cellar every year. The Auerbachs Keller ranks amongst the top 10 most well known restaurants that one must visit across the world.

The Auerbachs Keller is known throughout Germany and is one of the most famous and oldest restaurants and it dates back to 1525 when a wine tavern was established in the cellar of this house by Heinrich Stromer, a doctor who was born in the Auerbach. In 1530, he rebuilt the house completely and soon the property became famous as a tavern and trading house which was known as the Auerbachs Hof. The cellar came to fame during Goethe's time because of the scene in Goethe's drama “Faust” that depicts “Auerbachs Keller in Leipzig”. The most interesting part of the cellar are the wine rooms where gourmet cuisine is served. The Goethe Room, The Luther Room and Alt Leipzig and Fasskeller are places where the historians frequented during the earlier days and in the big cellar of Grosse Keller is where you can experience fine Saxonian hospitality with 100 years of tradition. The big cellar offers a romantic and personal ambience and has a capacity of seating 500 guests. A visit to the Auerbachs Keller was truly a cultural, historic and culinary discovery, very unique and special.

Thereafter we headed to Meissen which is 40 minutes drive and 15 kilometres north west of Dresden. Although European porcelain was invented in Dresden, it was here in Meissen where the porcelain became world famous and later we were not only to visit the State Porcelain Manufactory but to have some fine cuisine served in Meissen porcelain at the Manufactory. Our visit to Meissen commenced with a walking tour of the old town. Meissen, also known as the Cradle of Saxony was the former capital of this region and it is here that the German Emperor established his rule by erecting a castle on the hill during the 10th Century. Later, the first palace building was erected here before the Saxon capital was shifted to Dresden. The historic part of Meissen was never destroyed and comprises of 1500 valuable buildings, some as old as 350 years and have been restored after the German reunification.



Meissen is also on the Saxon wine trail route as it is one of Germany's smallest wine growing regions. Meissen is rich in history and the mighty ensemble of Albrechtsburg Castle and Meissen Cathedral adds character to this beautiful town. You can see the banks of the Elbe from the hill above and is truly a photographer's delight.

The Albrechtsburg Castle was the first castle ever designed as a royal residence in the German speaking region and was built in Gothic style during the 15th Century. Now a museum, it is truly an architectural masterpiece. The old city hall and the Church of Our Lady with its 57 metre high tower are as impressive as the stroll along the medieval streets of this beautiful town with its quiet squares and steep flight of steps, old houses, small shops, cafes and wine cellars. A visit to the Vincenz Richter wine bar is a must. The Vincenz Richter is one of the most famous wine restaurants and is like a museum. This former guildhouse dating to 1523 lies on the main marketplace and is family owned since 1873. The restaurant has a fine antique collection of pictures and weapons on display including a room with instruments of torture dating back to the Middle Ages. The torture chamber as it is known can be visited by the guests of the restaurant and is quite interesting indeed.



On our way across the medieval narrow streets we came across a shop selling Meissen Fummel, a fine pastry with a protected designation of origin from Meissen. The shape is an irregular round “balloon” made of a very thin dough and the pastry is very brittle and fragile. This was the creation of the Elector of Saxony and it was believed that the messengers who used to carry mail on horseback from Meissen to Dresden would damage the mail after having the Meissen wine. So the Elector invented this fragile pastry and the rider had the challenge to bring the mail without breaking the Fummel. The bakers were instructed to create this thin dough. This was created for an evidence of being sober or else penalties would be imposed on these messengers. I am sure not many messengers would have been successful in reaching Dresden without breaking the Fummel whether they were drunk or not.

Our final halt was at the Meissen porcelain manufactory. The “crossed swords” are one of the oldest trade marks in the world and epitomizes accomplished craftsmanship, beauty and style. Each piece of Meissen porcelain is an original hand made work of artists which makes the porcelain truly a collector's item. More than 40000 visitors come to see the highly artistic and masterly production of the porcelain every year at the manufactory which has over 3000 porcelain pieces on display, one of the most comprehensive collections in the world. After a short documentary, we went through a quick tour of the manufactory and the amazing range of porcelain was simply out of the ordinary. We were taken through the various stages of how porcelain is shaped and the time taken to make it a finished product does make it truly the “white gold”. It is said that Johann Friedrich Böttger was supposed to make gold for the Elector of Saxony, Augustus the Strong and accidentally ended up developing a red stoneware which eventually became the white gold or the European porcelain. Amongst several impressive works of art was a piano made entirely of porcelain on display and was available at a price of 200000 Euros!!! And then we were all set for the grand finale of the Saxony trip… the dinner ceremony on Meissen porcelain. Truly, to take back fond memories of this wonderful region, we were served a special menu known as “Journey of Time” taking us through different periods of cuisine - a cream soup of sugar peas with roasted king prawns, followed by saddle of lamb, medium rare, with olive crust vegetables provence style and couscous and the dessert comprising of panna cotta with peach lavender ragout. The food was accompanied by fine wines of the regions such as the 2006 Riesling Dry (QbA), from the Weingut Vincenz Richter and 2005 Dornfelder Dry (QbA) from the Meissner Weinhaus-Prinz zur Lippe. We were taken through the different styles of dining across different eras and it was indeed incredible to note that an area of 480 hectares in the Elbe valley produces 35 different varieties of grapes thus making Saxony the gastronomic capital of Germany.

The following day I took my flight home and later in 2008, I made my second trip to Germany in less than a year when I planned an itinerary covering the regions of Hessen, Baden Württemberg and Bavaria starting with the magical city of Frankfurt.

LYON - The City of Many Treasures

I arrived at France's second largest city and the capital of the province of Rhone-Alpes, to attend the International Destination Expo(IDE) and was greeted by some very wet weather. In fact it poured most of the day and after checking in at the Hotel Mercure Lyon Charpennes, I headed to register myself at the Cite Centre de Congres (CCC) what is also known as the Palais de Congres to complete my registration formalities for the ASTA IDE which would officially commence on Friday, 12th April 2008.


After a very smooth flight on Austrian Airlines which undoubtedly has the best connections to all of Europe, I arrived at the Aeroport Lyon Saint Exupery which is named after the famous Lyonnais, Antoine de Saint-Exupery, a French writer and an aviator.


On arrival, I bought a ticket at the Satobus desk. At 9,50 Euros you get a one way shuttle bus from the airport which takes you to the city centre. Additionally, I also bought a subway (le metro) ticket which would take me from Part-Dieu which is a central terminal and often the first contact area for visitors who get into the city by train. A single ticket valid for one hour on any public transport costs 1,60 Euros. When in Lyon, you can also purchase a one day Liberte Card for 4,40 Euros which gives you 24 hour access on the trams, buses as well as the subway.


Being a SKAL member has its advantages and M Stephane Robillard, Directeur of the Hotel Mercure Lyon Charpennes was courteous enough to help a Skalleague with a room at a very short notice. The hotel is a 3 star property and belongs to the Hotels de Chaine et de Charme which comprises of a chain of hotels which has 3 hotels in Rhone-Alpes including two in Lyon as well as hotel properties in Normandie, Provence-Cote D'Azur, Paris as well as Luxembourg. The hotel is very centrally located and is close to the Charpennes station and the Charles Hernu tramway. A very convenient place to stay; that too at a close proximity to the public transport systems. After check-in, I took the bus to the Cite Centre de Congres or CCC , about 20 minutes from the Charpennes area. The CCC is a very impressive complex situated in an exceptionally natural environment between the Tete d'Or Park and the Rhone river and is easily accessible by bus from the centrally located Part-Dieu TGV Station .


Lyon known as the gastronomic capital of France is a city located in Central East of France in the region of Rhone Alpes and can be reached from Paris, the capital in just 2 hours on the TGV and there are hourly trains to/from Lyon to the capital.


With a population of over 1.5 million people, Lyon is a UNESCO World Heritage City full of surprises and great contrasts with a blend of Roman and medieval history, classic and contemporary located at the confluence of the two- rivers, the Rhone and the Saone. You can walk thru 2000 years of history and the Old Town and its quarters are part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site. Lyon happens to be the birth place of the inventors of cinema and a visit to the Museum of Cinema is a must to discover the extraordinary inventions of the Lumiere Brothers. The Lumiere Brothers had invented cinematography and it is in 1895 that they had shot the first film in the history of cinema.


The Lumiere Quarter and the Lumiere Museum will take you back in time to admire the fine work, be it cinema, paintings or photography. You can visit the screening room which has a collection of over 80 Lumiere films, the first "set" in the history of cinematography and the photorama which was invented by Louis Lumiere in 1901 to allow the public to admire photos projected at 360degree and at a height of 6 metres. The fascinating museum is spread over 4 floors and 21 rooms and is worth a visit for lovers of art and cinema.


Lyon is a city of several icons from being the silk capital of world and a centre of fashion to the Roman remains taking you back to the Renaissance period and the famous "traboules" which connect you thru ancient streets with courtyards, cornices and alleyways to the Cathedral which was built in the 15th and the 16th Century. The traboules are covered passage-ways that create a real network of secret ways from one street to the next and which give Lyon all its air of mystery. It is amazing to see how different buildings are connected to each other thru vaulted corridors and inner courtyards.

Then you also have the fascinating murals which adorn the city and the Halles of Lyon where you would find the famous culinary delights. Old Lyon is immersed in history as it has one of the biggest areas of Renaissance architecture in Europe. The Hill of the Croix Rousse on the other hand is the home of the "canuts" - the silk workers which go back to the times of the Jacquard weaving machines, the historic 4 star hotel of La Cour des Loges which is a blend of history, comfort and luxury which once upon a time was a Jesuit College.

The four buildings that make up La Cour des Loges, were originally built for merchants, bankers and printers during the Renaissance period of the 15th and 16th Century. The main walls of No 2 and 4 Rue du Boeuf (Cattle Street) go back to 1341 and No 6 originally was built for a spice merchant in the 15th Century. The Lord of Burgundy, at the beginning of 16th Century, resold No 2, 4 and 6 to the Jesuits who opened a college in what is today, the annex of the 5th district of the Town Hall and transformed No 2,4,6 Rue du Boeuf into the college annex. After the French Revolution all the Church properties were confiscated and the houses were auctioned and rented as home and ground floor shops. The old section of Lyon of what eventually became Cour des Loges, in the mid-70s, deteriorated and from 1981 onwards, it took 5 years to restore it and today it is one of the most historic places in Lyon. Today, this property is a link between the present and the past, a subtle blend of old and new with the four magnificent buildings dating back to the 14th, 16th and 17th centuries restored to perfection. La Cour des Loges is the first choice of accommodation amongst the who's who, whether they are VVIPs or even those from Hollywood and during the site visit of the hotel, we happen to pass by a terrace- facing suite where Clint Eastwood, the famous western hero, had stayed. A room would cost anything between 247 to 485 Euros per night whereas a suite would cost between 525 and 618 Euros. No wonder the Cour des Loges is known as the jewel of Old Lyon. It is the combination of centuries and marriages of styles - a subtle harmony between the Renaissance spirit and the contemporary creativity that makes this place so special.


Other famous icons of Lyon include the Guignol- a character which was developed in a French puppet show way back in 1808. A visit to La Maison de Guignol is a must to witness a spectacular show where Guignol amuses both children and adults with his wit and humour. Incidentally the year 2008 is when Lyon celebrates 200 years of the Guignol. Yet another fascinating aspect of Lyon are the mural frescoes and you will find over 100 of them across the various districts of the city. Some of the murals, also known as trompe l'oeil in French are more than mere art. It is a technique involving extremely realistic imagery in order to create an optical illusion where the objects appear three-dimensional instead of a two-dimensional painting. One such sidewall of building comprising of famous people of Lyon extends up to 7 floors and if you do not observe closely, you may actually feel that there are real people standing in the balcony that overlook the street. In reality the people and the balconies too are nothing but trompe l'oeil or optical illusion created thru art. It was indeed fascinating to know how the mural frescoes evolved. In the beginning of the eighties, young artists formed a group in order to give more life and colour to the walls. They created two associations: "cite de la Creation" and "Mur'art", found sponsors, obtained the agreement of local authorities, and started to work. You can obtain a list of the decorated walls, which will enable you to go and discover this universe by yourself. There are more than 45 walls which are painted in the city of Lyon, each one having its own significance. The stand out fresco undoubtedly was La Murs des Canuts where you have these steps painted and passer-bys in the area get conned and try to climb the steps not realizing that it is just another of the many optical illusions in the city. Simply amazing !!!


Another interesting icon of Lyon are the Bouchons. A bouchon is a typical restaurant which serves Lyonnaise cuisine. They are family run establishments serving locally bake dishes such as duck pate, mushrooms, pork or sausages. The menus are fixed prices and serve locally based dishes in an environment which has hardly changed. In a bouchon you get the feel that you are seated in a restaurant in the mid-18th Century or of an earlier era and you start your meal with an aperitif such as a kir which is a wine with blackcurrant liqueur, followed by the various courses of meals. There are nearly 20 certified bouchons in Lyon and a meal in one of the bouchon is a must to get the flavour of the local gastronomy in an ambience that truly represents the days of the silk weavers visiting the small inns during the 17th and 18th Centuries. And it is indeed quite interesting to know the range of cuisine from bouchons to Michelin Star restaurants such as Bocuse, the famous Paul Bocuse which serves award-winning cuisine. Lyon is truly a gastronomic delight.


Any visit to Lyon is incomplete without visiting the soul of Lyon, the hill of Fourviere from where you get the most stunning view of the city be it day or night. The Fourviere Sanctuary was built on the site of the ancient Rome Forum of Lugdunum where the Virgin Mary was worshipped for over 1000 years. And the Lyonnais have always looked up on this amazing basilica to protect their city from war and disease. Every year the city is worth visiting on 8th December to see the festival of illumination or lights which is supposed to be simply spectacular. In 1852, a statue of "Golden Virgin" was installed here and the existing Basilica was built by the people of Lyon to thank this holy place for protecting the people during the war of 1870. Every year there are religious pilgrims who visit the Basilica seeking protection from Virgin Mary and there are special celebrations held on August 15th, September 8th and December 8th as thanksgiving and special services are held on these days.


The Fourviere Basilica is the work of the architect Pierre Bossan with a solid structure on the outside giving an appearance as if it is a Fortress on a hill and fine work of mosaics, stained glass and sculptures within the Basilica. The Basilica attracts millions of visitors every year and is one of the busiest sanctuaries and tourist attractions in entire France. I had the opportunity of doing the Visite Insolite de Fourviere tour, which is a Mystery tour which takes you to the roof of the Fourviere thru spiral staircase to get a panaromic view not only of the Basilica but the city of Lyon as well. This fascinating tour is a must for those who wish to get the inside story of what went into building the Basilica and on your way to the top you stop at various levels. One gets to visit the grand gallery, the architects' studio, the angels' gallery, the attic and the carillon of bells. The tour lasts for 75 minutes and one can take this unusual tour every day between June and September and on Wednesdays and Sundays in April, May and October.


The Hill of the Croix Rousse offers another dimension of Lyon as the Croix-Rousse is the home of the "canuts"- The origin of the word Canuts come from "cannes nues" which means bare sticks and symbolizes poverty. It is here that you would find the silk workers in the days gone by and hear the sound of the Jacquard weaving machines.Lyon can also be seen from the banks of its rivers and one can enjoy cruises from the banks of the Rhone as well as the Saone rivers. The Saone crosses the historic heart of the city to reveal the most unexpected neighbourhoods along its banks whereas the Rhone has over 5 kilometres of walkways where you can just take a leisurely stroll and you find en route lawns, cafes, deckchairs, pools, barges, concerts and restaurants and for fitness freaks you have a cycling track, a roller park and fitness circuits as well. A 90 minutes tour to see Lyon from the water is a must for any visitor to Lyon to enjoy the sights of Lyon on a shallow tourist boat which takes you across from the Rhone and drift along the Saone and admire the beauty of the city and see the magical and mythical confluence of the two rivers.


Another fascinating experience is the Lyon by Night tour as more than 300 sights are illuminated and the city changes completely at nightfall with the combination of public lightings. The view from the top of the Fourviere Hill of the entire city illuminated is simply spectacular. Last but not the least, Lyon is famous for its fine gastronomy and is home to the undisputed master of French cuisine, Paul Bocuse who has been honoured as the "chef of the century" in the Michelin Guide. You find several gourmet shops here and a fine array of restaurants where young chefs display their talent of creative cuisine not just in appearance but in taste as well. A visit to Bernachon, the house of chocolates run by the third generation of the Bernachon family where they believe chocolate is not a sweet or a treat but a real dish is a must. You are guaranteed to put on a few calories during your stay in Lyon. Luckily enough, you have several walking tours that you can take here to see this wonderful city, be it the parks, the art district, the markets, the Old Town and its traboules and you can simply stroll away all the calories.




SOME OF THE HIDDEN TREASURES OF LYON

* Passage Thiaffait or Creators Village is a passageway that houses textile, fashion, leather goods and jewellery workshops as well as boutiques.


* For late night dining, fashionable pubs and Lyon style bistros OR bouchons, a visit to Rue Merciere is a must.


* The three squares Jacobins, Bellecour and Celestins near the Bellecour area is home to over 70 luxury labels, world-famous brands and fashionable boutiques.


* The Lyon Auditorium located in the Part-Dieu district is one of the biggest concert halls in Europe and is the home of the Lyon National Orchestra.


*You can experience a tasting session of sea food with a glass of wine at the Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse or the covered markets on the weekends except Sunday afternoon.


*The Maison de la Danse located in the Monplaisir district is the only theatre in Europe entirely devoted to dancing and also hosts the biennial Dance Festival.


*The biggest secondhand flea market in the Rhone-Alpes area can be found in the Canal flea market in the Villeurbanne area of the city.


* Lyon is home to several museums including the Museum of Fine Arts, the Museum of Fabrics and Museum of Decorative Arts, The Gadagne Museum as well as the Museum of Modern Art.